The more I get into my engine the more I think Roy Disney and Mickey Mouse put it together... Two questions: 1. It has a red anodized aluminum plate in between the oil pump and filter housing. I think it is a KB piece, Is it a high pressure/volume pump or am I missing the booster plate. The gasket I have from TA looks like the pump gears will ride on the Filter housing, tearing the gasket to pieces and then... BOOM. 2. My oil pressure spring has a bolt shoved into the end of it. It looks like it is acting like a plunger, plus once assembled it rattles around. I'm going to order the TA adjustable regulator, but Im wondering if I shoulder the boost plate and install that also. HELP ME!!! This project is taking WAY TO LONG. Thanks Michael
run the booster plate with stock gears and the regulator. high volume pumps put alot of stress on the distbitor and cam bearings. they are great for a all out race moter . just my 2 cents
Michael, The HV-Hp pump has gears that are 1/4" longer than stock, they would protrude through the spacer plate, if in fact you have a HV-HP pump. The bolt in the end of the spring is a shim for the pressure relief spring. The adjustable regulator works much better, get it. The most important part of assembling your pump is to set up end clearance. The gears should protrude past the gasket surface .002-.006. You need to measure this exactly, and use a gasket that is .002 thicker to provide the proper end clearance. When you order the adjustable regulator, also get the oil pump shim kit, it has an assortment of gaskets of various thicknesses for this purpose. Use stock gears, a booster plate, and a stock spring with adjustable regulator.
if you measure for clearance as shown in the above post and use the ideal clearance of .002 . you are not allowing for gasket crush.or do you use .004 and assume .002 for crush?or is this a rough set up before measuring end play. also what is the best way to measure end play?
Mike, That would be a good question for Dave at TA performance. The gasket shim kit has various thickness gaskets that are labelled for thickness. I don't know if they take crush into account when they label them. In any case the final thickness of the gasket, and how much more it is than the above measured clearance will be your end clearance. You should be able to check it with a dial indicator, if you can hold the timing cover steady, and rock the oil pump drive shaft up and down.
The best way I measured my clearance was to measure just like the picture shows, and then use a gasket that is .002 bigger than the measurement. Torque the bolts down and see if the pump spins freely. If it does, then I would say you're in the green. With gasket crush, I would guess no more than .001 If the gears don't spin at all, or are binding, then go another .001 bigger until they spin freely. I had a really good time trying to figure out how to do thisou: I eventually ended up using the included .008 paper gasket and the .001 shim in the kit. After about 6 or 7 tries with other thicknesses, I finally did it right. Your main concern is making sure the pump gears turn freely when you get it together.
