lol that is hilarious i was thinking the same thing earlier i even got some of that line sleeve stuff that look like braided steel i could put on it
The problem with the nylon line is not just poor abrasion resistance, but also the constant heat cycles underhood which drive out the plasticizers in the nylon which allow it to stay flexible. If you've ever had one of these oil lines crumble into pieces in your hand then you've seen the result of this. Yes a copper line can work harden, but in an installation like we're discussing here, it should never see that kind of flexure, not even with typical engine rock. The key is to route the copper tubing with large radii wherever possible, using rubber hose and grommets where necessary for abrasion resistance. Devon
Another reason to run electrical. I have mechancal oil and water right now. I was working on my car today and I was running it when i saw oil running onto the floor, yup the line snaped at the engine and was pissing oil. Now just think about that, if I was driving and it snapped I'd most likely be replacing the motor. So go electrical !!! :TU:
And for the cost of the braided line you could've bought an electrical water temp gauge to go with your electric oil pressure gauge. And in regards to the earlier comment about getting rid of the warning lights, DON'T DO IT. Since you can't watch gauges 100% of the time you're driving, you need some kind of early warning device. Here's what happened to me after I'd disabled my temp warning light: Devon
i got a mechanical water temp too it has the probe thing on the end where would i put that so i can run the temp idiot light too.
There are 1/2 NPT holes on each side of the intake in front. One usually has the stock light sender. The other has a thermo vacuum switch. Eliminate the switch and use that hole.
Emissions in most cases. It controlled vacuum advance. All you need is one vacuum hose from carburetor to distributor.
Electric gauge at summit. SUM-G2881 $51.95. Mech gauge SUM-G29114 $24.95. 6foot braided steel line kit with fittings SUM-G2959 39.95. $15 more extra dollars. Can't get another gauge for 15 dollars. My point is the braided line will be better than the plastic line. If you want electric or mechanical that is your preference.
Stock temperature/oil pressure gauges don't have idiot lights attached. If you can't watch them then they are not for you. I just recently changed my electric oil pressure gauge to some Kragen one of some random brand (I shorted out my sunpro one, don't ask..), and the sensor has two prongs on it, one for the electric gauge and one to hook the factory light up to. I don't know though what the setting is for it to trigger the factory light. 10psi? 5psi? Don't know, but hopefully it lights up if it's at zero!
LOL, I'm with ya brother. :beers2: I actually use a big light that I bought to supplement the gauge that will turn on bright red when the pressure gets below 15 lbs. This is really meant for the racing aspect. During the 1/4 mile the only thing you really see is the tach and where the person next to you is, and the finish line of course. I think I had seen some gauges in the Summit mag that had a light built into them.
Ditto, I use the factory cold/hot light and like you, a mini-light next to the tach for oil pressure with the same 15 psi sender. The photo I posted was the aftermath of a rapid overheat situation on the highway. A fuse blew and the electric motor driving the water pump quit. I had given the gauges the usual glance only a moment before, then the engine started to feel sluggish. Glanced down again and temp was climbing past 250. I shut it down and pulled over to let it cool down, but when I restarted it all hell broke loose. Two hardened exhaust valve seats came loose from the 430 heads. So to those who rely on nothing but gauges, good luck to you. Never again for me, that was a VERY expensive lesson. With an electric water pump the overheat danger can happen just as quickly as with oil pressure loss. You can't drive (much less drag race) with your eyes on the gauges 100% of the time, especially if they're under-dash. Devon
I would bet the oil pressure guage would have read zero, and you would have shut it off. afterall, that is why we have guages..
probably would have slipped in the puddle of oil running to shut the key off in some sort of three stooge routine..
IMO, it sounds like a problem with the seat installation more than anything. I've lost alternator/water pump belts before and "caught" it pegging the temp gauge. My experiences from several engines is they'll mis-fire before something melts down. A brief experience at 250*F shouldn't hurt an engine, especially when you can watch the mechanical temperature gauge of about any engine with a 195*F thermostat in it climb into the 240*F+ range when the engine is shut off, particularly in the southwest US.
Without coolant flow, you have to realize the combustion chamber temps would have been astronomical regardless of what the gauge (which only reads to 250) said. Devon
