actually Actually, Yes you can glue it to the block, and tuck the little tabs in, ect. but if you use gorrilla snot on the block side it will be a bear to get off the next time you pull the pan. I glue it with the permatex 300. It gets sticky but doesnt completely harden. That way the gasket can move slightly to make a better seal. I just put an extra amount in the corners so they seal good. The neoprene gaskets are better than cork. They can take heat, oil, and adverse conditions. In some applications they can actually be reused. The main thing is to start tightening the bolts in the middle of the pan and go toward each end. Another thing you can do is to put a flat washer on each bolt. That spreads the load. Hard to do in the corners some times. and some engines already have them. I have actually had to take a cold chisel and hammer to get some pans off when some mechanic before me glued them with gorrilla snot. With permatex 300, the solvent is lacuer thinner so it is easy to clean up and when it gets too thick you can thin it out. :error: When I said to glue the gasket to the pan, I was thinking in generalities, some engines you can do that and I do that every time I can. On some you would just about have to do it the other way. I have seen some cut the tabs off the gasket and put extra sealer there. another good little trick for keeping the gasket in place is to get some of the wifes sewing thread and tie thru the bolt holes in the pan. When you get the pan on you can just leave the strings or cut them off.
CARS website Dont let the listing throw you. They list it as: 1972- all 350 & 455 with 4bbl carb (formed hose) $14.75 But as we all know, that hose is the same for all 400-455s from 67-76. It fit just fine on my 70!
Also- Does that vacuum hose connected to the brass fitting on the intake go to the vacuum advance? If it does, you have your vacuum advance going to manifold vacuum. It should go to the fitting on the drivers side of the carb- ported vacuum.
OK hopefully one last question, who has the neoprene gasket? Even TA said all they have is cork. Originally I had the VA connected to the carb. It was suggested to me to connect it to the manifold. Seems to run better like that. Thanks for the link I will call them today.
vac line The vac line was connected to the intake manifold on non pollution engines. After the pollution engines came along the vac line was connected so that there was no vac advance at idle. Not good. bad milage. lower power. :Brow:
Doc- If you connect the vacuum advance to full manifold vacuum, arent you giving the engine all the vacuum advance's timing at an idle? According to the 69 service manual, the vacuum advance should NOT receive vacuum at an idle. it defeats the purpose of the advance doesnt it?. Its supposed to start advancing at 6" of vaccum. At 16" of vacuum, it reaches its full advance of 14-18 degrees of advance. The purpose of it is to give the engine some extra pep off idle until the mechanical advance can kick in. Without the vacuum advance, you might get a bit of a bog or stumble off idle If the vacuum advance is connected to full manifold vacuum, it will be fully advanced at an idle, correct? So what happens when you hit the gas and lose manifold vacuum?? Does the vacuum advance then retard the timing? The hose should be connected to a port above the throttle plate (ported vacuum). So when you hit the gas, vacuum is applied to the advance causing it to advance the timing. The vacuum advance should not begin to operate until the throttle is opened slightly. I cant understand how the car would run better with it connected that way? back to the gasket....Ive always used the cork myself. never really had a problem with the two piece. Although i can see some advantage with the one piece. Matt, you might want to talk to Yardley agout gaskets. I remember he went through the same thing a few months back. I know he researched oil pan gaskets. He might have your answer.
Jason, To be honest I have made alot of adjusments to the carb recently so I'm not sure at this point if it feels better where it is or where it was. As soon as I get my driveshaft back I'll take it for a spin both ways and see but I'm definatly not getting a bog or stumble. Actually in a previous post Yardley recommended the Napa 1 piece cork but if neoprene is available I would think thats the way to go. Problem is as far as I can tell one doesn't exist for our cars. I have a new oil pan on the way as well as an adjustable pressure regulator, hopefully this will solve the leaking. If not Im going to use this motor for target practice :blast:
vac advance Yup, that is what happens. at idle the advance is all in and when you step on the gas the vac in the manifold drops and the vacume advance retards the timing. [now when the vac advance is all in at idle the engine runs cooler, has more power at idle and the gas goes further] As the rpms come up the vacume in the manifold increases and the vac advance brings the timing up too. At highway cruising speeds the manifold vac comes up and the timing is advanced. If you kick it down into passing gear the vacume drops and the timing is retarded untill the rpms come up and the vac comes back and brings the timing back up. If the engine gets up to high rpm then the centrifigal advance comes in and adds its amount of advance to the vac advanceses amount and gives the total advance. Pollution engines run the vac advance thru either the ported vac in the carb or a thermal switch that cancels out the vac advance at low rpms and idle. If the vac line is hooked to direct vacume in the intake manifold the response is faster and more positive plus having the benifits of more power, better milage, and a cooler running engine.
