I have a question regarding oil pressure on my 66 425, recently when i start the car i have a knock for about 2 seconds before the oil pressure comes up,usually the car starts with out cranking much.when the oil pressure comes up it goes to full pressure (on the factory gauges),and stays there until the water temperature gauge is right in the middle, then it drops to half pressure at idle.I have just recently changed the oil, before i was running 10w-30 with marvel mystery oil,with no knock,now im running 10w-40 ,and it's now knocking slightly on start up, but other than that the car runs fine, what could be causing it to knock on start up?
Most important thing is to use a good filter with the silicon drain back flap in it. The Purolator Pure one was the best, but they recently discontinued the PL 20003 (equivalent to the AC PF24). I now am using the top of the line Fram that has the silicon drain back flap in it. You will pay about $6 for the filter. It makes all the differnece in the world at startup--oil pressure right away. With the regular AC PF24 filter, the oil slowly drains back out of the filter because the drain back flap doesn't seal very well. Then when you start the car up the next day, the filter has drained back and has to be refilled by the pump before it builds any pressure.
Do you have the number of the Fram filter you recommend, also what about the K&N filter (expensive) but is it worth it? ps, I have a 430
I can't remember the Fram number--I will have to look at one of thr extras I have this weekend. It is the top of the line premium Fram equivalent to the AC PF24. It will cost about $6. I haven't seen any of the K&N oil filters before--I didn't realize they made oil filters.
I didn't realize there was anybody still running Fram oil filters. Completely useless endeavor. They have been proven time and time again to be useless garbage. On EVERY Buick engine I have ever run a Fram oil filter on (and on all my other make engines as well), I have had a knock at start up, and lower than normal oil pressure with the Fram crap filters. This all stopped when an AC, NAPA Gold, Wix or Purolator filter was substituted back onto these engines. Even better, System 1. Just because something is mass media, over-hype advertized, doesn't mean it works the way it is said to. Anybody know why they are always on special everywhere?, it's because they are very inexpensive to make, use less than quality components and manufacturing methods, keepd the costs to manufacture low, profit margins high. Fram's sales motto should be "Built To Be Fram Junk"!
I wouldn't use one of the regular Fram filters on any of my cars either. Their regular filter is called a Fram "Extra Guard". It is a piece of crap. The top of the line Fram Filter--the $6 one--is a very good filter though. It is called a Fram "Tough Guard" It is a very good filter--has the silicon anti-drain back valve that doesn't let oil seep past it after shutdown (the AC, WIX, Etc. just have a standard material drainback flap and they don't seal off very well). Try one on your car and I think you will immediately see a difference in how quick you get oil pressure at startup compared to the regular AC filter. It is Fram part number PH 25. I have cut some of them apart and they are very well built, high quality filters.
I cut EVERY filter I take off apart for inspection after I remove it, and I can tell you from eyes-on experience, doesn't matter which series of Fram you use, they are completley useless as a filter. I will simply not use a Fram filter for any reason, from my own looking inside them, and testing on the engines. Nope, NEVER again, no matter the design of Fram, NO.
