Oh No!

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by Briz, Aug 22, 2016.

  1. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    Fortunately not any of the Buicks. Got the F350 fired up and running pretty smooth. Bad exhaust leak from the #8 port of the ex manifold. Gasket let go. Carefully worked the last bolt on that head back and forth and it came out. Cool! Put the socket on the second going forward started gently rocking it tight / loose / tight /loose and snap. flush with the head. Next one came out. next one snap. Got the torch out and blew the heads off the rest. Removed the manifold. successfully drilled the 2 bolts out to 5/16" Heated the area with the torch till it was red and put the EZ out in there. Snapped it off. Now Im screwed. Fully prepared to pull the head but dont want to if theres another way out. Not enough area to weld a bolt on. Maybe if it was on the bench but not in the truck. Ideas?
     
  2. cobravii

    cobravii Well-Known Member

    reassemble the intake using all the bolts except that one and use red hi temp silicone instead of a gasket. I use that **** on everything!
    I have 65 Cobra replica with 4 into 4 headers and side pipes. the whole system hangs from the header bolts, I was replacing gaskets every six months. Since I put it together with red silicone 4 years ago I haven't had a singe leak. just make sure it skins over before assembly.
     
  3. SteeveeDee

    SteeveeDee Orange Acres

    Probably won't work in this case because of the bolt being so corroded, but I've ground a groove with a Dremel tool and used a big screwdriver to back some bolts out. Talk to your machine shop guy. He may have another answer that doesn't involve bringing him the head.
     
  4. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    Its the exhaust. Ive used the red before and it worked for awhile but eventually gave out. I still have 5 "studs" sticking out of the head that need to come out.

    Borrowed the right angle drill from him yesterday. When I brought it back he said I was pretty much screwed and advised me to pull it and chisel out the EZout while wearing gloves and eye protection. The EGR is already gone so theres not much in the way of pulling the intake / head.
     
  5. dan zepnick

    dan zepnick Well-Known Member

    I weld a knob on it enough to put a nut on.then let it cool abit and wrench it out.sometimes it takes afew tries.
     
  6. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member


    Probably the way I'll go. Started pulling it today. After a couple of hours fighting with undersized bolts and frozen in place distributor, finally got the intake off. Maybe tackle the rest of it tomorrow. Everywhere the mice / squirrels nested the heads of the bolts were rotted to as small as 1/2". Some new grade 5 bolts will be going back in place.


    Does anyone know if the heads bolts for the 460 can be reused or are they the type that once torqued, stretch and must be replaced.
     
  7. dan zepnick

    dan zepnick Well-Known Member

  8. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member


    Thanks Dan!:TU:
     
  9. Bluzilla

    Bluzilla a.k.a. "THE DOCTOR"

    I worked on a '68 Mustang build (Ford Racing Parts Direct 427 SB, 525HP Crate Engine) with another local Hot Rod shop and we used "Ultra Copper" with custom made Stainless Steel Headers and it never leaked. We even pulled that enging once to freshen and re-sealed the headers again with the Ultra Copper.....no problems. I would tend to believe that the cast iron exhaust manifolds would be more rigid in your favor, just in case you don't get them all out.

    Larry
     
  10. gmcgruther

    gmcgruther Well-Known Member

    Here is a trick I used at our machine shop, heat up the area around broken off bolt and easy out, spray WD-40 or a very good penetrating oil on it as its cooling down. Do this at least twice and on the last go around keep spraying it until its completely cooled down. You should be able to remove them fairly easy. Kroil works the best.
     
  11. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    Gonna definitely use some sort of sealer. Want this thing to be quiet and smooth for the next owner. Wont have the funds to paint it after this unexpected expense so its other merits will have to make the sale.
     
  12. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    Success! Pulled the head this morning. Used a really small bit to drill many small holes through what remained of the bolt and started tapping away with a punch. after a short time the ezout fell into the bottom of the blind hole. worked at the rest of it until it came loose. Some of my drill holes hit the threads so I went ahead and Heli Coiled that hole and then drilled the other and put a coil in it. The remains of the other 6 bolts came out with vise grips and heat. Chased all the threads then put it in the parts washer. clean dri and painted. Sand blasted the valve cover and intake + all the brackets that had to be removed. Tomorrow I'll start to reassemble with all new bolts.


    NCM_0004[1].jpg NCM_0005[1].jpg NCM_0006[1].jpg This is what was under the intake. Never seen rust in the ports like this on any other engine. wire brush in the parts washer took care of the L head and sand blaster on the intake
     
  13. 71skylark3504v

    71skylark3504v Goin' Fast In Luxury!

    So are you going to have one nice, clean painted head and one dirty one?:laugh:
     
  14. SteeveeDee

    SteeveeDee Orange Acres

    Purple Power and a rattle-can of paint save the day! :b
     
  15. Bluzilla

    Bluzilla a.k.a. "THE DOCTOR"

    I'm not sure but in the pictures the some of the cam lobes look rusted also. Might just be the lighting when you took the picture but worth checking into.

    Larry
     
  16. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    Yep thats the plan!

    They have a brown coloring on the outside edge of some of them but its not rust. I've run the engine for close to an hour prior to pulling it apart. If it was rust I'd think the lobe or lifter would be trashed.
     

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