Grrr... I'm trying to get the timing cover put back on my Nailhead. Along with that, I purchased an upgraded timing cover seal. I know [think] the seal is correct as it was sold by a Nailhead specialist. Anyway, I tried to put the seal in, and managed to just mangle it up. First I put one end of it in, and gave it a few taps with the sledgehammer. After that one end was a little in, I tapped all of it with a sledgehammer. The bottom got seated well, but the middle was halfway out, and the top was all the way out. I got a block of wood and beat it generally, but it did nothing to the seal. I then stuck it in a vise, and put a wood block in to turn down on the seal. I ended up with the bottom and the seal and the middle of the seal seated, and the top mashed out and distorted. Sigh :rant: So, what is the proper gentle way to caress this seal in the timing cover? And also, do I have to buy a new one? ou: (I think I do).
Anyone? I know this might go better in the Nailhead section, but a seal is pretty much a seal in any car.
A seal usually has to be pressed in evenly - not wedging in the top half and then trying to work in the bottom half. I would try and find a wooden dowel thats close to the circumference of the seal (clothes hanger rod ?? ) and set the seal square to its surface, and the rod as square to the seal as possible and whack it gently at first to seat it, then work it in slowly .....may take two people - one to hold the dowel and one to do the whackin (I know which person I'd want to be) :spank: :spank:
A big socket works well in these situations. As Alan said, it needs to be driven in evenly. There are inexpensive seal driver kits on the market. J.C. Whitney is good for things like that.
They actaully make a tool for that. Its called a bearing & seal driver. Works on races too. I have one made by Snap On (of course) but I believe Lisle makes one alot cheaper. Check it out. Jason
Joe, they do make seal drivers, but my experience with a small piece of 2x4 has allways worked, tap gently, and evenly. lose the sledgehammer!! it may take some time but keep working around the seal 12 o' clock, 3 o' clock, 6 o' clock, etc.. till it is seated firmly into the timing cover, no special ops needed, patience is appreciated. "by the inch it's a cinch, by the mile it's a while" slow and steady gets the job done. Bruce
Homemade tools... Joe, Here is what I use for seals and bearings. I made them at work about 7 years ago and they are still working great!! They are made of Delrin (Manufacturer name) essentially they are polypropylene rod that I stuck on a lathe at work and turned them down to the size of the most common bearings and seals that I worked with at the time. While I had it on the lathe, I also bore a hole down the entire length in case I had to "press" a bearing onto a shaft. This enabled the shaft to go thru the 'bearing punch' without mushrooming the shaft. I have used these things extensively, as you can tell from the pics, for the last 7 years and they are the greatest thing I invented. They are soft so they won't damage the bearing or seal and you can beat the crap outta them and they don't self destruct!! You can get the rod from McMaster-Carr fairly cheap. Or, if you know someone that works at a food plant, ask them to get you some delrin rod. They will know what you are talking aobut. Food plants cannot operate without this stuff. Here are the pics.
I've never done this on a front cover, but it worked like a charm on a pinion seal. (After I boogered the first one up, similar to the above story.) Get a piece of PVC pipe the right diameter for the seal. Cut it to the right length so that it can go between the yoke (balancer) and seal such that you can slip the yoke (balancer) on and start the nut (bolt) a good number of threads. Then just tighten the nut (bolt) to push the seal in. Perfectly straight!
These are all great suggestions. I think I am going to let the machine shop put it in once the next seal gets here. While $16 isn't a lot of money, it stinks to just throw it away.
