No Spark to Plugs!!! Help asap

Hey guys I was driving my 69 Skylark and it shut off on me, I coasted around the corner and it started it again, but noticed that i had to keep giving it gas for it to run, so i slowed to make a right turn, let off the gas and the car died with out hesitation. I was stuck there. I had a test light screw driver.

I have power to the + side of the coil, with the key turned, I tested for spark to the the distributor, and it does have spark, so then I tested the spark plug cable, and there is no power to the plugs when carnking.

This is the first time it happens.

I removed the new cap, and it looked good, the center cap terminal looks dark, I believe thats the regular color though correct? The rotor is also new along with the points,

I need help, What can it be????

My car is stuck alone 4 blocks from my house and in not such a nice neighborhood, I need to get it home


I also leave out of the country this Monday so i'm getting pressured, I'd tow it but I want to get it running since im not far,

Any Ideas Guys? Bad Cap? I'm puzzled

 

First, remove the air cleaner and operate the throttle by hand ,looking at the accelerator pump squirter and see if you are getting gas to the carb.....If you are, then,,,,,,, Install some new autolite spark plugs, and a new coil.... do the plugs first and then try to start it... if it runs , take the coil back....:Brow: :Brow: If it doesnt , install the coil,,, that should make it run....

 

Check the points again to see if the gap is within spec on the bump of the cam. Better yet use a dwell meter and set to 30 degrees.

 

I have power to the + side of the coil, with the key turned, I tested for spark to the the distributor, and it does have spark, so then I tested the spark plug cable, and there is no power to the plugs when cranking.

#1 you have power at the coil with the key on
#2 You say that there is spark at the Dist. meaning when the points separate there is a spark correct? (assuming you have points)
#3 Pull the coil wire from the cap only then Hold the coil wire above a good ground surface (about an 1/8th inch away( careful though could bite you if its a strong spark.. then if that arcs the culprit could be the cap.. they will get carbon tracks inside or even be cracked.. possibly your rotor but not likely..

 

also check to see if the distributor is rotating.

 

I purchased a new coil, but nothing, new cap and rotor and still nothing, luckly the shop will allow me to return them. By spark I meant, the wire from the Coil, to the distributor cap has power wen cranking, thats the odd part, I test it with a light, and it lights up when cranking.

So might be the points? Burnt points? Is that a symptom? They look new though, The distributor does turn around, its not seized, so for checking the points, how do go about checking the current there?

Thanks guys

 

This is good advice. I suggest you do this next.

 

+1

I've had brand new points fail more then once. Seems they don't make them the way they used to.

 

I had something similar happen once and it was a bad condenser...
Now,,,, when you are checking spark at the plug... the spark should jump a gap of at least 3/4 in... and be blue... not yellow.... on the old points/condenser system....the modern systems the spark is thinner and whiter.... but it should at least jump a 3/4 in gap.... I have seen some that were really good jump 1 in.... if it wont jump that far the coil is weak....

 

Im going to go return the parts and test the points, might pick up a new set

 

get a condenser too....

 

Isnt the condenser attatched to the points? Or is it the one on the coil?

 

Make sure the rotor is turning when you crank the engine. Could be the distibutor gear or cam.

 

28.99 later plus taxes, I replaced the points and condenser, and nope uzzled:

So When I turned the key I noticed the ignition switch popped out a bit, hmmm, it appears to be loose. Bad ground? How do I go about removing it to look inside?

 

take a known good coil and install it and see if it runs.....

 

tried it and still no go, It's got me.. I don't know what else could be wronguzzled: o No:

 

they are set at 30 degrees, I pulled out a plug, the #1 plug and it smelled like Gas and had some oil on the plug, Ill post a pic, I dont think thats normal huhuzzled:

 

In post #6 you say "the distributor does turn around, its not seized." Actually, if you grab the rotor and try to twist it, it should be seized. Have you observed the rotor spinning when you crank the engine?

 

Yea sorry I should have been more clear, The distributor does not spin manually, when cranking, I observed it and it does spin freely.

This really has me stumped, I am no big mechanic but I can manage, I have checked everything I can think of, I have traced the wires back to the fuse box and they have power, It appears that the problem is between the distributor and the plugs, The wires were replaced like 3 months ago when I purchased the car