Not real clear on the results you obtained while testing the wireing. Zero to point 2 volts is way too low for voltage with the brake switch on and supplying power to the harness. If you were checking continuity the resistance reading is great. The ground wire at the regulator being off will only affect the chargibg circuit, not the brake lights. The dome light feed is always hot 12 volts since the door switches and headlight switch provide a path to ground to light them. Run a resistance check from a good ground point to the bulb sockets and see what you get. The lower the reading the better. If the reading is high the ground point is bad. Disconnect the harness connection in the trunk and test for voltage to ground with the light switch on to either parking or headlights and the brake switch on. You should get 12 volts persent on your wiring to the trunk. The gas gauge working shows that the harness is/was plugged in and not cut so that much is good news.
I would still check the fuses. I pulled all my hair out trying to track down a wiring issue last Fall, and it ended up being the fuse the LOOKED good, but did not flow current.
Success! Well....I'm bleeding and sweating like a hog....but the brake lights work. Turn signal switch was the culprit. $45 at AutoZone. Now the dash light for the brakes is on!ou: Hopefully that clears up when I start it up!
hooray!:TU: Sometimes, I have to nudge my parking upward with my toe to get the red dash light to turn off.
