Newly rebuilt 350 - all good but overheating? help!!

Not to hijack JP's thread (sorry) but between this and the 200R4 thread that IIRC you (and several others) had going, despite being somewhat of a purist, I'm definitely considering going that route (prob. w/4.10's) on my '71 GS convertible. Currently a basket case so I have some time to decide. Only hesitation, again being a purist, it it's a #'s matching drivetrain, but it's an easily undone mod and seems like the best of both worlds.

Sorry JP - Back to your topic @ hand and I agree on the 180 stat although it would be interesting to dyno a 350 @ some different temps to see the HP difference. I know NASCAR (at least Cup series) runs theirs up around 220-230 - I assume for higher HP, but the engines may also be designed to better utilize the heat.

 

I say use the 200-4 trans and 4.10's if that's what you want.
Don't keep the car all #'s matching if your going to be miserable.
VERY few of these cars are original anymore, the survivors are the only ones.
Put that 4 speed in with 4.10's, do some sweet burnouts, and have fun!
Nothing lasts forever, including us Have fun NOW

 

Right on do it NOW

 

If your car is a GS 350, to keep it looking "stock" and factory fresh with more smiles per mile, I would say to wrap up the numbers matching engine and put in storage, then build a sbb stroker to install in its place! Without aftermarket connecting rods in a sbb the 4.10 gears won't be nearly as fun only being able to spin it barely over 6,000.

If its a 455 car, then no need for the 4.10 gears, 3.42 would be plenty. I would suggest the same as above with the 455 and build or buy a BBB stroker, I think Gary has a 482 short block for sale in the for sale section. If you're a hands on guy Jim Weise can hook you up with any BBB needs you have as well.

Enjoy the car while keeping the miles off of the matching numbers drivetrain.

 

Yep, we save the numbers matching stuff for the next guy after we're dead and gone......
When you bought a late 60's or early 70's car years ago, you immediately put headers, cam , intake, carb, gear, traction bars, etc. on it to be cool and do some street racing.
I don't think things have changed.

 

It's a 350 and I've been following your sbb posts (and all you 350 guys!) since getting back into cars about 2 years ago. I'm going to be building 2 350 cars hopefully ('71 vert and '70 4-sp. Stripper hardtop). Both are basket cases. I sold my last 350 4-sp. car and a '71 350 auto. hardtop when I needed $. Always loved the 350's - Last one I built I posted about recently in the thread on stock rods and it ran 13.0's back in the '90's. My first "car" was a '70 Jeep Wagoneer with a factory SBB and first GS was a '72 350. Of course in the '80's/'90's Sonny was the man with the fastest 350 and Mike T's wagon was originally IIRC an 11-sec. 350 car. I think the 350's are so stout that I'm tempted to build both #'s matching engines, but I'd probably still pucker every time it hit 6k+. Will prob. wrap them up.

Last 350 had 3.73's and I drove it 600 miles ea. way to the Nationals on the non-rebuilt, non #'s matching '70 SP which ran 14.0's @ 103/4 - I never could get the 60' times down and "I can't drive 55" so it screamed, but it held together. I was young and didn't know squat about tuning it, but it made some HP. I do love the idea of the 200R4 and 4.10's though for the vert.

I'm excited that these engines finally will be getting some much deserved respect and definitely intrigued by the Take-out NASCAR rods, and of course the new heads. Have also considered building the 4-sp. car for PSMCD. It's a super light car with virtually no options & probably the only '70 GS 350 that came stock with an SCO 3.64 and as a result was arguably the quickest production GS 350 ever made - its it special car and someone definitely knew exactly what they were ordering.

On the other hand, a stroker, intake, headers, heads, etc. sounds SO fun. I think with the heads, etc. that a very streetable high 11/low 12 sec. 350 will be reasonably easily achievable - Maybe better with some suspension mods. My old 350 4-sp. car was the most fun GS (and I've had lots incl. Stage 1's, GSX, etc.) I've ever owned. Might wind up doing one each stock appearing (could still stroke it, but not for PSMCD) and an all out build. The only think killing me on a stock appearing is the restrictive exhaust manifolds. Lots to think about and for better or worse I have some time and as things progress I'll be looking to bounce some ideas off you guys.

 

I thought your build was over JP. I wanted to close with "THE test will be when it gets hot"! Now. seems your past that point. The way I test timing is after dwell is set. I drive and put the pedal down to accelerate. Like the on ramp of highway accelerate - but still a short burst. If it rattles I know its incorrect. I think book says tdc at 550. Or 450 in drive. That's where I set it. Clutch fan 7 blade fan.

 

For the 68- 69 v-8 Buick motors all you have to do is get them hot the first time and those heads will crack.

 

Hi guys.....

quick one, I been driving around, have done probably 250 to 300 miles.

I think I might have head gasket failure?
I done a sniff test and accused exhaust gas on the radiator, the liquid turned yellow.
When I start the engine, it smokes a bit, like condensation, at first I thought it was condensation in the exhaust system, but the weather been really warm over here, and when I leave it on idle I get water coming out the exhaust, it marks the floor... once it's warmed up, no smoke or water.

Temperature is fine, has never overheated, since fitting the thermostat it stays at 180 while driving and up to 195 if I have been stopped for ages.....

Not sure what to do?
All the temperature is fine, oil pressure is fine, there's no change on performance and there's no water in the oil..

Can I drive it around like this and always keep an eye on temperature and oil?
After all these months without it I just want to drive it.. have it parked ready to take out now and again... If I now get to change headgaskets etc it will take me a couple of months off the road....

thanks
JP

 

Well, I don't have an overflow container, but been keeping an eye on the level in the radiator, as I remove the cap. - maybe this is not an accurate way?
it doesnt seem to be moving that much, I think in these 250 miles only went a little bit down, probably put in not even a pint of water in there.

Maybe I should try add the overflow container and put a line on it.
Engine been running brilliantly.. all my driving is done at mainly 1900 / 2000 revs and performs so well... I've taken it up to a maximum of 2400, on gentle accelaration and from 1900 to 2400 it does move quite nice and free...

 

I'll get on to it!
there's a few scrap cars at the workshop yard, I'll get an overflow tank off one of them... thanks!