New to the forum. Just picked up a 1964 Riviera

I just picked up 1964 Buick Riviera. The block in the car is a 425 i am assuming(original). The engine was tested and is good. I am interested in building the top half of the motor by putting a new intake manifold and carberator to hopefully increase horsepower and overall performance. Any other suggestions(to increase horsepower and performance) would be helpful. Parts are not as available as say a 350 chevy motor. Part numbers and ideas are greatly appreciated(Holly,edelbrock,etc.). The car is in the garage but once this rain stops i will get some nice pics. I look forward to learning from some of the pros on this board. Thanks again.

 

Welcome JMEDS,

You've come to the right spot for Buick info. Most of these people "live & breath" Buicks.

What's your name? We're on a friendly basis here.

Thom Kleckner :TU:

 

Welcome to one of the best BUICK sites on the web !
Check out the Riviera Owners Association (ROA) at: www.rivowners.org when you get a chance, and enjoy that '64, one of the true classic Buicks. :beer :TU:

 

Getting your heads worked by a pro is where you will get the biggest gain. The head design on these engines is not good for air flow. I would spend my money there.

 

Welcome From Indiana

 

Welcome!!!:3gears:

 

Thanks. My name is John and am located in Stockton,CA.

Definately looking forward to building this car to my liking. As is, it runs well(stock except for the starter). Can anyone recomend an intake manifold and carberator?

Do the 64 Riviera's come with stock posi? I have not tested it yet.

 

Welcome John,
Couldnt have picked a better board for info. Lot of Good Guys here to help with the Riv. Post some pics
Gary:TU:

 

Welcome! You are definately in the right place!

As far as the intake and carb: If you want to keep the single 4barrel, keep the stock manifold and modify it as outlined by Doc in "wrench'n secrets-list of cheap tricks". This has lovingly been referred to as the "docs dual plane" modification. You can also do a search. Go big on the carb if you choose something other than the stock carb. Nailheads LOVE CFM's! dont be afraid to bolt on 800 or even over 1000. The dual quad options are two 625's! Anyway, the factory AFB or Quadrajet are good carbs worthy of rebuilding. You wont have to mess around with modifying your linkage and stuff too. If you want the eye candy effect of the dual quads, that is a different story. What do you have in mind? What are your goals? Check out my build thread in my sig link for more info on the 2x4 option.

I'm not 100% for sure on the 64, but I don't think posi was standard, but it was an option. You'd just have to check it, or there should be a tag attached to one of the bolts. Haven't you tried laying a patch?:3gears: Did you get 1 stripe or 2?


Erik

 

It could also be a 401 engine, I believe available on the 64s.
Should be easy for some of these experts (I'm not) to tell you.

 

ALL '64 & '66 Rivs came stock with a 425 1x4. The option was 2x4. Posi was NOT standard but an option. '63&'65 came standard with the 401 with 425's being an option. Most likely rear axle ratio is 3.07. If it's a posi there will be a tag on the fill plug which has a 3/4" square plug nut & takes a 3/4" open end wrench to check the fluid. The open rear has a 3/8" square plug that takes a 3/8" drive extension to remove & check the fliud. So by just looking at the fill plug you can tell if it's posi or not. '64 did NOT have a switch-pitch trans. but is a good, strong trans. none the less even though it may be a one year only deal.

 

I have done a little research and have concluded the 64 was built with a 425 although I have read somewhere the 401 was circled in the manual of some 64 Riviera's. The numbers on the heads match the year of the car but can someone tell me where the engine block numbers are? How can I verify if the numbers match?

the motor looks original but you never know. The way I got the car tells me whoever was working on this car did not have the patience to complete it properly. It still has the black plates.

Right on for the carb info Eric. I think I am just going to rebuild it for now. I talked to a gentleman from edelbrock who recomended a 650 cfm carb because bigger ones may create some issues as far as performance. That is what he said.

My plans for the car are still up in the air until i verify the engine numbers and the car match. The interior was already done once. It is a custom job but can be improved which i plan to do.

Patience is a virtue when rebuilding a classic I see.

 

Don't listen to Edelbrock as they are giving you generic info. The stock carb. you have on there now should be 625 CFM's if it's the proper carb. You could go as much as 750-800 or more to see a performance improvement. But, going to an aftermarket carb. such as an Edelbrock will also raise some other issues with your kickdown linkage & the top of the carb. is 5 1/8" as opposed to your original.
The engine number should match the VIN number on the cowl tag which is located on the drivers (left) side of the cowl on top. For '64 should start with "7K1xxxxxx". The engine number & engine ID letters are located behind the water manifold on the flat machined part in front of the valley pan. If it's a 1x4 will be KW. 2x4/KX located on the passenger(right) side. The VIN on the same plane on the drivers(left) side & should start with a 7K1xxxxxx & be the same as the cowl tag.
I know where to get just about anything you may need. I also have 4 parts cars & some new parts in stock. So, just about anything you need I can get or know where to get. This includes improvements in ride, handling, steering, braking, etc.
I've had my '64 Riv. since new & have been "Playing" with it since 1964.

Tom T.

 

Glad you are here, Believe Tom and Jim and just go slow and make changes one at a time .....
Toms roller rockers are worth while.... and so is my intake manifold mod... ck out my list of cheap tricks under the wrenchin secrets section...
Nailheads love big carbs.... I am running a 1050 cfm holley 3barrel on a modified factory single 4 intake... aka,,'' Doc dual plane''.... on a 410 cu.in. engine....
runs good.....
later....

 

I decided to take the Riviera on a nice drive and my carburator took a ****. My bro in law is a mechanic and diagnosed the problem. On Monday I plan to purchase a new carburator and will take the advice of Tom. The one on there right now is a carter which I believe is original.

My question is what modifications will need to be made if I go with a 750-800 Edelbrock carb? What air filter and changes need to be made?With the carb does the mounting kit come with it? Part numbers would be appreciated. I have a mechanic out here in Stockton and would like to divulge the problems that will arise from this change to speed things up so he can get it done efficiently so I do not have to sit around all day waiting for parts to be delivered.

I need a hood emblem and a small window nob for the front driver side. The small window. Also a cap for a rim. The round piece that goes over the middle area. If available can you list pricing and payment method Tim? Thanks in advance.

Right on for the info doc.

Pics coming soon...

 

What did the engine do when you had trouble with the carb????I am a holley man and have one on my nailheads,,, but I have also worked with carters and rebuilt them..... they are simple and easy to work on....all carbs are just atomizers that mix fuel and air into a vapor....

 

I was driving from Stockton to Napa. When I reached my destination I realized I forgot my son's diaper bag and was going to the store. As I was coming down a hill my car just died. It would not start back up. My first thought was fuel pump. I called my bro-in-law and he came to where i was. He showed me where gas was leaking out the side of the carb. He adjusted it and said I will need a new carburator because the original one on there was going out. I know this is true because the few times I have tried to punch it the car bogs down like it does not want to go then picks up.

 

Send me the carb. for a rebuild & the distributor for a rebuild/advance modifications. Can even convert your distributor to a "Breakerless". Two of the least expensive hop-up improvements you can make.

Tom T.

 

and that will be two of the best things that you can do for the money....

 

Keep the carb and have it rebuilt. Like others have said, when you get the carb issue straightened out, have your distributor converted and recurved. Those two changes alone should really make a huge difference in performance and driveability. Good luck, and please keep us up to date with progress.

John