New Springs - Did I Need Them?

If you had the uppers off before, then no problem. If I hadn't seen the video I wouldn't have known how to get the top bolts out of the frame so I could get the upper A arms off. I did the front end rebuild last spring so I don't remember exactly how I used the C clamp, but I believe it was to press a bolt out of the frame bracket, could be wrong about that. Like I said, if you have done it before you shouldn't have any problems.

The spring compressor is like Ebay item: 120734219423

Let me know if you want me to send it.

 

I can rent one like it at AutoZone or Advance Auto so I don't think I'll need it.

Thanks for the offer. I just need to find one of them with the ball joint press so I can save my upper ball joint.

 

Upper ball joint is pressed in? On a 65 Skylark it is riveted or bolted on. Hardest part on a 65 is removing the rivet. Well, good luck and have fun.

 

No, I'm using a Howe tall ball joint that has a lot of distance between the spindle and the control arm. It bolts in just like any replacement upper ball joint. A regular pickle fork won't cut it and I want to save them because I intended to use them on the new tubular arms. Ran into two snags.

Snag 1: Old springs come out but new springs won't seat in the top and go inside the spring pocket on the bottom. The spring compressor I rented isn't working. I need it to go through the shock hole and the one I have is too big to fit the threaded rod through the hole. At 165 lbs I don't have enough mass to man handle it. I tried running the spring compressor up through the bottom shock hole but it won't compress at an angle that will slip inside the frame pocket. Off to look for another one to rent or buy.

Snag 2: The hole in the new tubular control arms is .040 too small for the Howe tall ball joint. I'm going to see if I can get the hole enlarged enough to fit. I thought it was just the paint but I filed that off and it still won't fit.