Any opinion as to whether new repro fuel tanks need to be painted before install? The ol' rag won't see salted roads or rain, except possibly an occasional FL sun shower so I don't know that I have to worry about rusting on the outside. :idea2:
Im pretty sure they're galvanized arent they? They really dont need any. And for the record, GM never painted them Make sure install one of Patton's repro gas tank pads with it! :TU:
71- and 72 di not come with a pad. I can verify this by seeing several come out of junked cars with the build sheet on top of the metal tank.
I am going to use a pad even though my original didn't have one. What was left of a build sheet was mounted on top.
i wish i would have powder coated mine flat or satin black...to match the frame. The tank i bought was not galvanized and kind of looked like crap, they seem to get stained even in storage? i had to hand sand with 1000 grit or similar to get the staining off so it looked decent, maybe i should have clear coated it at that time. it really depends on the look you want and how you envision what the tank will look like after a few years of driving.....just my 2 cents since you were asking. :TU: Gord
I have seen many originals up here in the North that were under-coated with thick black Goop. I could argue this is concourse correct for this area.
"I have seen many originals up here in the North that were under-coated with thick black Goop. I could argue this is concourse correct for this area." Dave you can argue that all you want, but that's not the case. Duane
Duane, would a backflip help?ou: I know the dealers did it but so common here it was the norm. I don't plan on doing it anyway.
Check out Eastwood's zinc coating for gas tanks, probably not a cure all but should help. I have two cans in the garage for my tank.
Scott---On the Gas Tank Pads---from my experience GM stopped installing the pads sometime after the '70 model year. So, if you are doing a hardcore concours resto for judging leave the pad out if your car has the original tank and no evidence of a factory pad. On a non-concours '71 up car that didn't have a pad installed at the factory you can still add one of my pads as there are no differences in the top of the tank or the trunk pan compared to a 1970 car....thus the pad will fit fine, just as it does on an earlier car. Is it critical???---Probably not as GM decided to stop installing them at some point. My thinking (of course I sell the pads so call it "subjective thinking" if you want) is that the GM strike prior to the '71 model year had GM scrambling to eliminate assembly steps wherever they could so they could get the cars out the door. Regardless---I like the fact that the pad prevents the bare top of the tank from rubbing against the metal underside of the trunk pan. With the straps in place the tank isn't really going anywhere so rubbing may not be an issue anyways. But...the smallest movement between two metal parts could also be the cause of an annoying and "hidden" noise on the car. So..there you have it...both sides of the argument "for" and "against" installing one in a post '70 car. I also mention in my ad that the pad can be trimmed back so it's not so apparent once installed....sort of a a "stealth" installation. You can't totally hide it via the trimming as there are some metal-to-metal contact points around the perimeter of the tank top that you would want to isolate with the pad. Here's my take on your other questions: >Spectra Premium brand is THE ONLY TANK TO BUY. It IS NOT worth whatever money you will save buying a cheaper tank. There are other, cheaper tanks out there, made overseas, that are made of a different steel that will require complete cleaning and painting. And then you have to worry about the cheaper steel inside the tank. The good Spectra tanks are made with a certain alloy or they are plated....like the original GM tanks. >Appearance--The steel surface on the Spectra tanks (like the originals) has a certain, unique look to it. Sort of a galvanized look that makes it so the tank surface is not perfectly consistent in its finish. You know how galvanized parts look...they have a sort of random pattern where the zinc galvanized coating is laid out. The tanks don't have as distinct of a pattern as a galvanized part but maybe that at least helps........ THUS---if you paint the tank...it will look like paint. Consistent look over the whole painted surface. >Paint--As mentioned in earlier responses to your thread, the Eastwood Tank Tone is a good choice...while it will look like paint due to its consistent finish it at least has a good look to it in terms of brightness of the silver color. Clearcoat...not a bad choice either. NOTE: If you are going to paint or clearcoat your tank you really need to get it CLEAN. DO NOT USE ANYTHING ABRASIVE as it will scratch the metal surface and there is not reason to cause any damage to the fresh protective-coated surface of a new bare Spectra Tank. So....plenty of wax and grease remover is in order here. The manufacturing process leaves a pretty oily/greasy residue on these tanks when you get them. That stuff MUST BE completely removed to get decent paint adhesion. >Other---Consider making your tank a "periodic" maintenence item. In other words, a couple times year you could roll under the back of the car and wipe it with some type of metal preservative/coating to provide a slight barrier coat to the elements. This also gives you a chance to check out the rubber fuel lines on the front/top of the tank which should be done regularly now anyways as some of the new gasoline formulations can really do a number on rubber fuel lines. LONG TERM BARE: Depending on the humidity/environment where you live, over time the tank surface could get slightly chalky looking and/or dull out a bit and turn a darker grey. This is what happens to the original GM tanks....it's the reaction of the surface coating on the tanks with the atmosphere. There's probably some form of zinc in this finish as that reaction is typical of the sacrificial nature of zinc coatings and platings.
