Often totaly fuel fouled plugs will not fire. get new plugs and after checking everything else try again. Seen it before on a nailhead.
2* cam advance will not matter. just for the heck of it go top dead rotor pointing at number one and check the lifters where they are on the cam lobes on number 6 cylinder, where are the lifters on number 6 cyl? another thing move the dist all one way counter clock it should turn over hard the back it off till it just cranks free.
If you have fuel, air, and spark at the correct time, the engine will run. If it doesn't, there has to be a mechanical issue. I would check everything very carefully. Be absolutely positive that when the timing mark is on zero that the piston is on the compression stroke and the distributor rotor is aligned with the proper terminal for #1 in the cap. Be positive that the plug wires are set for the proper firing order. Be positive that you have a nice, hot spark. Run a compression test. Maybe even take a fuel sample. Is the fuel actually any good? I realize that this is all basic stuff, but unless the cam is installed incorrectly, or you have very low compression (which could result from the cam being installed incorrectly), It's gotta run.
Let's expand on this a bit. 1. You must have a BURNABLE fuel/air mixture. Too rich, it won't run. Too lean, it won't run. You have fuel pressure and volume as shown by your previous testing. You say the carb is untouched since the engine last ran. Choke work? Does the accelerator pump squirt gasoline? Is the gasoline so old and contaminated it won't burn? 2. You must have spark AT THE PLUG GAP, at the RIGHT TIME. If the plugs are fouled, the spark trickles off across the porcelain, it doesn't jump the gap. If you have the distributor 180 degrees off, the spark is not at the right time. Keep in mind that on a low-overlap cam, the valves will APPEAR to be closed when the cam is on overlap (end of the exhaust stroke) when you should be at the end of the compression stroke. Watch the valve events to find TDC of the COMPRESSION (not exhaust) stroke. If it were me, I'd install the distributor with the crank/damper showing about 10 degrees advance instead of at TDC. If the damper ring has shifted, you won't get a proper TDC indication. 3. You must have compression in the cylinder. What is your cranking compression? I bought my boat with a non-running engine from a frustrated owner. The "rebuilder" for the previous owner had the valves adjusted too tight. It took about an hour for me to figure out what was wrong, re-adjust the valves, and fire the engine. If the camshaft is not properly timed to the crankshaft, the engine may not run, may run poorly, and could bend valves. Too-slow cranking speed will provide poor compression. 4. You must have free-flowing exhaust. This one is less crucial than the others, if the exhaust is plugged the engine may still pop, it just won't run. WHICH OF THESE DON'T YOU HAVE?
Get a cork that fits tightly in the spark plug hole (#1) Hand turn the engine until the cork pops out. Check the timing marks and sneak up to where the timing marks are aligned. Take off the distributor cap - is the rotor pointing to #1 terminal? My bet it is not. If that checks out, I would suggest a compression test on a few of the cylinders. If the rockers are not adjusted properly, you will have "0" compression. You could pour some gas down the carb throat to prime it. Is the fuel pump good?
Good advice there Before you prime, be ready with a clean (not greasy) rag to smother any fire in the carburetor. If, the timing is off, and/or the comb chambers not compressing, you could get a fire ....
This is the one most overlook. You might have the valves adjusted too tight. If so, they won't close and you have no compression. I chased this with a SBC that I built. Had primed the oil system then adjusted the valve lash and tried to start it. I guess the lifters pumped up some more after cranking it over. I chased spark, fuel the whole shabang. Checked the compression and didn't have any. loosened up the valves and it fired right off.
I believe I have solved my problem, although I am not 100% sure how. I was able to get the engine to fire, but immediately shut it down as I need to put in fresh oil. I spent the afternoon doing the following: Spun motor and noted all valves moving Checked wires to distributor and coil to make sure installed correctly Made sure I had TDC on the compression stroke with distributor pointed at #1 plug. I checked it by bumping engine with compression tester installed and noting when the needle moved. Once needle moved I manually spun the motor so the timing mark aligned with 0 on the cover; rotor was pointed at #1 plug wire. Looked at #6 cylinder and no valves appeared to be moving and piston appeared to be at BDC. Manually spun the motor one revolution back to 0 on timing cover. #1 exhaust valve opened and closed and rotor was 180 degrees away from #1 plug wire. Manually spun motor one more time to 0. #1 intake valve opened and closed, piston moved back to TDC and rotor again pointed at #1 plug Ran compression check and had 120-125psi on all cylinders Removed engine ground straps and ground for distributor and removed all of the paint in the firewall and head bolts to ensure I had good contact Pulled all plugs (they were wet and smelled of gas). Let the plugs sit out for a couple of hours to let the fuel evaporate Turned in carb mixture screws and backed them out 1.5 turns. They were both 3 turns out Re-installed plugs and re-checked firing order Charged battery all day After all of the above, the motor fired almost immediately Since the oil smells of gas, I am going to drain and order more oil. What do all of you think about re-lubing the cam lobes? I have more lube, but will need to order new intake and valley pan gaskets. Part of me thinks the engine never really ran, but I did spin it quite a bit, between trying to start and compression tests. Thanks for all the advice
be double sure that you put zddp in your oil before running the engine.... other wise you will wipe the lobes off of the cam....:Brow:
Good question. Best to do some research, maybe ask the cam manufacturer or the cam lube companies. Here's an excellent article on cam break-in lubes by ZDDP: http://zddplus.labecon.com/TechBrief12 - ZDDP and Engine Break-in.pdf It states the cam lube is primarily needed for the first 30 seconds of running until the oil splash from the crank flushes it away at which point lubrication is done by engine oil. The stage between the initial 30 seconds of run time up to one hour is 'phase two'.... Explains how the cam's porous phosphate coating is an abrasive which laps the lifter surface to mate with the cam lobe. It's possible you already wore away some of the phosphate coating, and 'break-in is underway. It may be best for you to inspect the cam and go from there. Might as well add more lube at that point. On the other hand, since you didn't run it at higher rpm's yet, it's possible you still have enough cam lube on there to last for than initial 30 seconds of run time. o No: You should be able to reuse the cover and manifold gaskets if you didn't use sealer on them the first time. For the metal intake gaskets, a coat of metallic spray paint should make them re-usable. Just put them back in the same position.
After giving it more thought, I am going to pull the intake and re-lube the cam, to be safe. I have been working on this car for over 3 years and will be at it for at least 3 more, so I see no reason to rush. Doc, I am using Royal Purple break in oil which is formulated to provide the necessary lubricants for the cam. I also have ZDDP additive for future oil changes Thanks
Works for me.....:laugh::Brow: personally, I think that all you need to do is just make sure that you have the zinc in the oil before you run the engine.....
John, not sure why compression was low. I was more focused on ensuring compression was similar on all cylinders. I would like to think compression will go up once engine has run. Will check again once engine has had initial break in. Had a couple of hours to kill this evening and pushed car back out and it fired right up. Unfortunately, it will only run with the key held in the start position. So, it looks like I have a wiring problem to chase down. As soon as I let off the key it dies. Hopefully once I have this figured out, third time will be a charm. Doug
I don't know but, It seems like I remember that the resistor wire to the coil is bypassed when the starter motor is running. If I'm right, you are getting juice to the coil when you hold it in 'start'. And the circuit is broken in the 'run' position Check the resistor first... Check the wiring to the resistor and resistor to coil. I don't know.... Your last post just rang a bell in my head...
Another quick update... Stripped off all the tape from the wire running to the coil and all the tape running from the ignition switch to the coil, inspecting and comparing to the wiring diagrams. All wiring looked good and accounted for. Grabbed the plug at the junction block on the firewall and heard the clicking sound of it seating properly. Car now starts right up and runs without holding the key. Unfortunately, it's Mothers Day so I will have to wait for another weekend to push the car back out and attempt my initial break in again. Happy Mothers Day Doug
