Need help working out bugs before I decide to rebuild (?)

Just picked up my first Buick!! 67 Skylark w/ SBB 350. I drove it home when I bought it, 5 miles. It was very rough those first few days. I'm hoping you all can help me get it tweeked and then determine if she has any life left. Keep in mind my goal for this car is to make it good running and reliable, not a bracket racer. When I'm finished it will probably be sold (because that is what always happends, I think I just like working on them) :grin: and I'm on a budget.

Soon as I got it home I changed the oil and filter. Old oil was very black but I didn't see much garbage. I added synthetic (bad idea?) because that's what I'm used to running in the previous performance motors. Not sure if that was smart or not.

Next I changed the plugs and installed the new ones at .040 gap. Plug wires look good. Appears to be a fairly new cap and rotor. I believe the points are still there (never worked on a points dizzy) because it has the access door on the cap. I verified the initial timing is 12deg. Mechanical advance weights and springs look kinda crappy with lots of slop.

The carb is a Holley 4160 750 cfm which I think is way too big. I started going through it but developed a leak at the fuel fitting so until I get that fixed I'm on hold. Prior to the leak I adjusted the mixture screws and float level. It's running very rich still!

It has a ticking which sounds like it is coming from the pas. side valve cover but it is not constant. I haven't been able to pinpoint when is does it.

I did a compression test last night. Readings in order from 1-8........160,170,150,162,165,190,165,175. I really want to verify everything else before I tear into the motor based off those numbers, although I am prepared for the worst.

The car starts great and idles fine, which is a drastic improvement already in the few days I've owned it. It seems to cruise along ok but fall flat when I try to accelerate, even part throttle.

I've been pretty excited since it's been in the garage and I'm jumping all over the place.....carb, dizzy, comp test, etc. I know there is a logical method so I need some direction. Where do I start? Thanks in advance!

Also, if I have to rebuild I may compare the costs for rebuilding and doing a motor swap. There is a guy close buy that supposedly has a good running 430. Just an option.

 

Check the points to see if they are burned and still flat. Then set the dwell for the points. I would change the plug gaps back to stock which I am guessing is 30-35/1000". Check the total timing with no vacuum source connected to the vacuum advance. Plug the end of the hose during the test. Forget about the initial timing for now.

 

Welcome! Sounds to me like you're checking all the right stuff- glad you did a compression check. To me, no warning signs there, which is good. For engine health check (and to weigh whether rebuild or not immediately) would be to get an idea of the oil pressure at idle once it's hot. As far as synthetic oil, I've heard that when used on these older engines that it finds leak paths a lot easier, so I'd keep an eye on the oil level on the dipstick and the driveway. The ticking sound I'd guess would be exhaust related. Does it have exhaust manifolds or headers? Either way some gasket replacement might be in order. Tell us where you're located, and post up some pics of your car! We' love to see it.:eek2:

 

First, are you sure its a 350?
A '67 would have come with a 300 or 340.
The 350 has about 3'' of head between the valve cover and manifold and the 300/340 bolts straight under the covers more like a SBC.
And the 300/340 has evenly spaced exaust runners like a SBFord.

Second, loose the points.
A SBB 350 HEI is easy to find, or a Pertronix points eliminator kit from most Advance autos.
Your car isnt all original, so why put up with points?

Third, gauges, youll need to keep an eye on the vitals of a 40+ year old car.
A tripple gauge set with oil-temp-volts should do.

Fourth, if your oil pressure is low (less than 10 at idle), a SBB oil pump is cheap & easy to rebuild and while youre there ad a booster plate kit.

Fifth, stick with Holley, but a 750 is a tad big.
A 600 or 650 single feed would be better, but your 750 will work.
Rebuild it and if youre engine is stock try 62 jets in front and if it has a secondary-metering plate 68s in back with a soft secondary spring.

And sixth, welcome

 

I haven't looked up any casting numbers but I saw the 350 casting. I did realize that it wasn't the original motor when I purchased it. I'll do some research on points elimination.

---------- Post added at 01:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:17 PM ----------

I also just unveiled the block casting number, 1382201. Looks to be a SBB indeed. I pull more casting info as I dig in.

 

If there is a "350" cast onto the intake manfold towards the firewall it should be a 350.
But yes the 67's came with a 300 standard, or optional 340 (2 or 4bbl) or the 400 in the GS.

 

> if you've got an old dude buddy that knows how to check and set a points distributor correctly , done . quick n cheap , just add a little better coil , maybe an advance curve kit , and its a runner and you can spend your time n money on other areas that need attention . they worked fine for like a million years . THEN you can upgrade if needed and wanted .
> maximize and tune what you've got , then make single changes , keep track of steps taken and what works
> carb - do you have a carb number ? upper choke tower , driver side . ( will say maybe "LIST 3310-3" or similar - common 750 number ) . or even a quick clear pic ? unless it is a holley spreadbore carb there needs to be an adapter under carb , check for vac air leaks around gasket(s) area . 750cfm is ok for a 350 if it was adjusted properly or untouched . if someone has just thrown in bigger jets or messed with vac secondary springs etc it could run/idle crappy . get it back to stock specs and go from there if needed .

 

750 will run OK on a stock 350 Buick but not ''untouched''.

The factory jets will be to big (probibly 68fr-76r).

And the factory secondary spring is way too stiff, a stock Buick 350 would never achieve full throttle with it.

Besides, unless the carbs almost new, hell probibly need a new secondary diaphragm anyway.

 

Good and bad news.

Bad news is that my fuel leak that I was chasing was the fuel fitting on the rear fuel bowl, stripped. So I went to see a guy that runs a shop and is suppose to know carbs pretty well. He didn't have an extra bowl in the shop but he's going to check around tomorrow. He handed me a fresh rebuilt carb and said bolt this on until I find your fuel bowl. :TU: This guy rocks!

Good news is I bolted it up and it cured my stumble and hesitation, at idle anyway. It revved out pretty good. Kinda suprised me since I thought the motor was junk when I bought it. This thing may have some life left after all. Also tells me I still have issues with my carb. I may have him check it out while he has it.

The carb is a Holley 3310-5. Actually looks pretty clean. I hope to make some progress this weekend when I have some more time on my hands. Keep the input coming. :Comp:

Oh, and the ticking wasn't there tonight either. Hmmmm

---------- Post added at 08:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:09 PM ----------

I'm running the spread to square bore adapter also.

---------- Post added at 08:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:14 PM ----------

So I searched online for the points elimination kits. I checked brands, pricing and installation video's and seems easy enough. Will I have to replace my coil also?

 

If the car sat very long, it was probibly a lifter ticking.

Its pretty common with Buicks.

---------- Post added at 09:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:51 PM ----------

No, and thats the good thing.

Everything looks the same, but better.

It wouldnt be a bad idea to upgrade the coil, but dosnt have to happen right away.

 

Sweet

---------- Post added at 09:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:19 PM ----------

Anyone have pros/cons on the accel vs petronix dizzy conversion?

 

Before you buy one take a look at the one in the link below,seems like folks here that have this one really like it.


http://www.cranecams.com/view.php?s_id=15



http://www.cranecams.com/402-407.pdf

 

Oh yeahou:

Theres a two letter stamp on the deck surface between no-1 and no-3 cylinders on the drivers side.

Find it and we will know exactly what year, compression, and hp it is.:TU:

 

If you have issues with the Holley it might be better to replace it with a Q-jet.

 

You make a good point. The spread bore to square bore adapter does not work very well on the stock intake. Either a Spread bore Holley or a Buick 350 Q jet will be the best bet with the stock intake.

 

Great point. When I first pulled the carb off I noticed that horrible adapter. The transition from the carb to intake is ridiculous. I'll see what I can do with this Holley first.

I'm on hold right now until I get my carb back and parts come in.

I tried everywhere locally to find a dizzy mechanical advance curve kit and points eliminator kit, no luck. Most of the people looked at me like I was stupid when I asked for the parts which really grinds my gears.

I may try to find out that block casting info before I close up the garage for the night.

---------- Post added at 08:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:21 PM ----------

I just verified the vacuum advance is working properly.

---------- Post added at 09:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:36 PM ----------

So I cleaned off the surface rust off the old mechanical weights and reinstalled. While I was part shopping online I came to the conclusion that it starts and idles fine. I'm pretty certain my drivability problem is in the carb so why go and scrap the points just yet. Besides I've never had points and I'm curious to learn. They appear to be fairly new compaired to other parts in the dizzy. Keep me focused here. ou: I guess I'll have to get a dwell meter now. Any way to check for proper adjustment with a multimeter?

---------- Post added at 11:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:30 PM ----------

I got a few things done tonight....

-Verified fuel pressure at 6psi

-Verified timing: initial 12, 33 all in at 1900 rpm's

Seems pretty decent based off of what I've been reading on here. Is 1900 too soon?

The ticking from the valve cover is very sporadic. At one point while adjusting the timing and carb (still rich @ idle) I was thinking this thing sounds pretty strong. I shut it down and fired it again 10 minutes later and it was clacking again. Sounds like it's time to check the oil pressure and pull that valve cover off.

Any other recommendations?

 

there was a stock hei unit for sale in the the for sale section. paid 25 bucks for my last hei dizzy. most of the elimitnator kits are triple that and do basically the same. id save money used a mid 70s stock unit.

---------- Post added at 07:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:35 AM ----------

i like the paint on your car. it needs some super 8 wheels and fat white letter tires.

 

There is one adapter out there for the square bore Holley to fit the spread bore stock intake manifold. It is a 4-hole adapter and this one might work. The back two holes are on an angle to the rear of the intake. You will then more than likely have to go up one jet size and add possibly a larger squirter.

The open spacer with the square bore carb on the spread bore intake just does not work at all. I tried like heck to get a Carter AFB that is square bore to work on my stock ride and it just did not work. For the stock intake, the only best bet here is to use the Q-Jet. Unless you buy the TA intake manifold then you can use any carb you want as this intake accepts both kinds of carbs as a bolt on.

 

Remove the valvecover on the side that is ticking, put some shop towels over the rest of the engine bay and fender and fire it up. You should see the issue right away. Likely a sticky lifter or something broken at the rocker.