does anyone have the exact specs for a 2-jet in a 350-2 '71 skylark? I want to replace the main jets, power valve, and idle screws. I would also like to know who sells them. I rebuilt the carb, with the basic kit, had a bad flat spot, and lack of power. been all through the ignition, new dist, w/elec conversion, timing, cylinder psi test, etc. put in a reman from autozone, and that added a real bad cut out of some sort at heavy throttle (high rpms ok, just not with heavy throttle) I popped open the reman, and judging by the float shape compared to rebuilt diagrams (don't know if this is a good way to tell) but it looks like the autozone rebuilt may be tuned to a small monza engine. although I cleaned the orig carb good, some of those 35 year old pieces may no longer be up to par. I messed with accel pump and maxed out the leverage. it seems that on accel and heavy steady throttle, I am not getting enough fuel. fuel pump is new and running about 6 or 7psi. also, anyone have the stock cam specs for a '71 skylark? or know if I can modify the 2 jet for a little more umph! the car is orig/#match, that's why I don't want to just drop a four barrel in it and call it a day.
thanks guys, none of the autostores seem to have or can get anything but the basic kit. I've seen carbs unlimited, they're probably the best bet, I'll have to call though, they dont' seem to answer any of the emails I've sent them in the past.
[RANT = ON] I haven't seen a parts-store reman carb in 10 years that was worth a bent penny - I swear they just clean 'em and then hit them with hammers before boxing... :rant: Unless yours is cracked or melted I wouldn't buy one on a bet, and then you'll have to go through it again anyway. Junkyard carbys are way better. [RANT = OFF] My '71 Chassis Manual shows the following specs, unless noted they're the same for both Manual and Automatic transmission cars (and apart from the different part numbers, the Automatic Skylarks and LeSabres have the same specs): Parts Part number: Manual = 7040143, Auto = 7041142, LeSabre = 7041442 Throttle Bore: 1 - 11/16" Small Venturi: 1/8" Large Venturi: 1 - 1/4" Main Metering Jet: Manual trans = .060" - 60*, Auto trans = .059 - 60* Idle tube restriction: #67 Idle needle hole: #53 Spark holes: .045" X .125" Pump discharge holes: Manual trans = 2 - #62, Auto trans = 2 - #67 Choke Coil letters: AG Fast idle cam number: Manual trans = 7038179, Auto trans = 7043669 Dome Vent: 2 - #67 Cluster Top Bleed: 2 - #58 Adjustments Float level: 15/32" Float drop: 1 - 7/8" Pump rod: 1 - 15/32" Choke tang: .080" Choke unloader: .180" Idle speed: Manual = 800rpm, Auto = 600 in "D" Primary vacuum break: Manual = .160", Auto = .150" Secondary vacuum break: .140" Choke coil rod: Gauge slot Choke Assembly number: Manual = 7041194, Auto = 7041194 From what I gathered years ago and remember today, the '71 350 2-bbl and 4-bbl cams were the same. I got some duration numbers once, but they were nearly impossible for me to compare to anything because they're apparently from something goofy like .0001" lift (...like 325 degrees duration) and nobody uses those reference points anymore. At any rate, even the '70 GS camshaft (which *was* a unique part, I've got one) lays over at 4200-4400 rpm. You can rev it higher, but there's not much point - might as well shift and burn rubber again. :Brow: Best gain to be had is to power time your engine and maybe recurve the distributor as in the sticky note (i think it's at the top of the street 455 section). Of course, that's assuming that everything is in good tune. :Smarty: Or, if you're interested in originality, you *could* put on a 4-bbl manifold / carb, and keep the 2-bbl in storage....a good Q-jet will really make that 350 sing! :TU:
