Features the Nailhead guru Russ Martin from the Yahoo NailheadBuick group. Some good tips here::TU: http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/81904/nailing_down_the_buick_nailhead.aspx And I might as well repost this one too while I'm at it... Webrodder: http://www.webrodder.com/index.php?page=showStories&pageNum=0&CID=&search=nailhead
Russ posted there are a few errors in the 'Engine Builder' article he was interviewed for..... >>>> It is 98+% correct which is better than usual .. Corrections.. - the part about align boring and honing.. they got it backwards, you want BORE not hone, the boring bar can be adjusted to remove less of the block and more off the cap to keep your timing chain tight. - Small valves and light springs have nothing to do with heads cracking?? - and when they are talking about heads and seats it says 54-58 heads can use valves?? it should read LARGER valves from later nailheads.. .. Russ Russell Martin CENTERVILLE AUTO REPAIR WWW.nailheadbuick.com <<<<<<< :TU:
Thanks for posting the link and also glad you posted this correction. The align boring/honing comment left me scratching my head when I read it. I knew it was not accurate or perhaps taken out of context.
a lot of good info in these articles! intersting that Russ Martin and the Web Rodder article differ on a couple points. Russ is against tapped galley plugs, but Archie Goodwin recommends this switch. Russ says main align hone will possibly result in loose timing chain, but Web Rodder build did align hone of mains. The other NH web rodder articles recommend align hone of mains. The machining was done on my block before i had a chance to read Russ's opinions on these details. I discussed slack timing chain with the machinist. He chuckled and said, people who don't fully understand the process or have been victims of bad machining work tend to fear the loose timing chain due to align hone of mains. i'll soon find out if he is right when i install the timing set on the short block. i also tapped the 3 front and rear (behind the distributor drive) galley plugs. An hour of patience with 3/8 NPT tap easily accomplishes that task. Grind down the hex socket plugs so they will not interfere with oil passage and flush with outer block surface. Not sure why anyone would have a problem with this modification; easy straightforward improvement. of course Russ has built uncountable NH's, and my tally is less than 1 but greater than 0.
Machine shop installed threaded plugs on mine too. He used some thin plugs from Ford.... didn't block oil holes to the cam bearing at all.
That was a good article. I was just to his shop fairly recently. If you ever get a chance to go on vacation that is the place to go.:TU:
Hi, Russ Martin here. I came across this site and thought you guys would like to know that I corrected the mistakes in the Nailing Down the Nailhead story, there is only one mistake, the rear sump pan was used until 61 not 60. I have also sent in corrections on the "How To Build Max Performance Buick Engines" and should have the corrected versions to sell soon. Yes a guy can tap for screw-in oil galley plugs, I have seen plenty of butchered messes and why do something that is not necessary?, an engine with 40 lbs of oil pressure is not going to spit out properly installed oil galley plugs (we make the correct ones), when I hear of that happening I will change my mind, so far have not had it happen or heard of any. The same goes for line boring, why take a chance on align boring (yes they quoted me wrong,NEVER line hone) your block when it is not necessary?? There are more bad machinist than there are good ones. I have seen plenty of blocks, cranks and heads ruined by machinists. If you think you have a good machinist and you want to risk your parts than go for it.. Russ
Hello Russell, Welcome to V8 Buick! I'm looking forward to seeing more posts from you. I've had my Buick 41 years. I learn something from this board, on every visit.
