My SBB Build

I've fought the end seals before too, and was able to seal them without pulling the intake. Drain the oil, spray the areas that leak with brake cleaner or something that doesn't leave any residue. Use a bright flashlight to see areas where it's leaking. Add black RTV or right stuff to those areas and smear it in with a finger. Really work it into any cracks. Let it FULLY cure, put the oil back in or fresh oil, then try it. Nothing to lose but a little time. What do you have for a crank evac setup? Any oil squeezing out elsewhere?

 

There might be a switch on the back of your tach and you may have it in the 6 cyl. position... Also look for a back connection.

Also be sure you are not leaking oil down from the valve covers. I prefer the TA composite intake gaskets and this AM+P slash shield for under the intake:

http://automachperf.com/oilsystems.html

Likely where the oil is leaking is at the corners of the neoprene piece on the front of the intake. Some people do not use these pieces and instead use RTV only.

What I do is apply a THIN skin of "The Right Stuff" (which is the best RTV I have found) onto the front and rear ridges of the block. Then I sit the neoprene pieces on and add a blob of "The Right Stuff" in each of the 4 corners. Then I add a THIN skim of "The Right Stuff" to the intake on the front and rear as well as the coolant ports. I torque the intake down to just 10 foot pounds and wait 6 hours before I torque to spec. This way the sealant has time to cure and does not let the neoprene "spit" out as you tighten the intake down.

Others may have other ways, but this way works 100% for me.

 

I will look for the leak next weekend I should of inspected but just needed a break. I didn't even clean the oil up either. I know Gary and I checked it out for gap and did use silicone on the ends and a small amount across the neoprene seal. Funny thing is it didn't leak at anytime when Gary broke the motor in or when he had it running for me when I picked it up. I have been starting it for weeks but not moving it and i havent noticed leaks in that area. The tach worked fine before the accel conversion and is a aftermarket replica of the orignal tachs about a year and half old that didn't have a switch for 6 or 8 cylinders. I have a stock intake on her and new pcv. Also have a breather in my driver side valve cover.

 

Well I went to the storage facility to check on the leak. Before cleaning up the mess I inspected the areas and no oil around the intake or valve covers. So i cleaned it all up and then ran her and it didnt take long for oil to show up. Well best I can tell its has to be the distributor or the hold down. So to make sure I took distributor out and nothing on intake or front of block or near valve covers. So I replaced the o ring and used a new bolt as well. After screwing up the timing and get it back running. No oil so far and hoping next weekend is nice out so I can really test her! and hit some rpms to really see. Oh and bonus fixed my tach...cheap end on wire to negative was fraying so I cut wire and put new end on and presto!

 

Even though My motor is running great besides maybe a small cooling issue when its really hot out Ive been thinking about carbs. So I currently have a 350 750 qjet on her and since she is not quite stock now wondering if it would make sense to go to a 800 455 carb I have sitting around?

 

Since you plan on going to a dyno to tune it, why not get the 800 put it on and tune it by ear, then put the 750 back on and dyno with the 750 and then dyno with the 800. I would do that. worse comes to worse just sell the extra carb.

 

Great build! I hope you get a chance to get some dyno numbers so we know how that cam works with heads being ported so well. :TU:

 

I think the car could handle more cam with the heads but is a pretty good street motor Hoping to get dyno numbers this summer as well..

 

Although the 455 Q jet has worked well in the past for me on a Buick 350 here is a word of warning:

One time a member used a very well ported set of heads, TA 212 cam, etc and then topped it with a BBB Q jet. ON the chassis dyno it was VERY lean on the idle and part throttle due to too large of idle passages (designed for 455 inches not 350).

Also do not worry about the lack of a massive cam in regards to the power potential of the engine with the ported heads as your torque advantage with your cam will mean more than a SLIGHT HP increase and and slightly better high RPM if you were to use a larger cam.

Without a single plane intake, and a chassis set up for high RPM launches the smaller cam will run about as fast if not faster than a massive cammed version.

 

Just an update to my motor setup...over this winter going to upgrade the following:
1.60 Roller rockers
The new single plane intake
Switching to a 800 cfm Qjet

 

I didn't see what rear gear your running. With the sp3 you might want to get Alittle deeper gear if you don't already have it. Also I would run the 750 as you tune. Marks sp3 post shows its still need to be figured out what will make the so run right. Mark actually lost almost a full second in 1/4 mile. So maybe tune one step at a time.

 

I would run a DP Holley with the sp3. .

 

I wouldn't use Mark's experience with the SP3 as an indicator or of the the SP3's behavior or capabilities at this point, he has other problems IMO , the SP3 is meant for hi compression big cam higher rpm engines and N20 and Forced Induction setups that need more plenum volume . Putting this intake on anything other than that will not show a major improvement but certainly wont cause you to lose 100hp

 

X2 LOL
Hold off on the SP3 for now, see how she runs as is.
Hoping to get to the track again this Saturday and see what happens with my original jetting, AND the correct size accelerator pump cup ( kept pulling off pump shaft)

 

Thats a good idea I will keep this carb around to start. I have enlisted the help of Gary Paine as some of this is over my capabilities or comfort level. The car currently has its original 3:23 gears.

 

Not sure what you mean by holding off as this motor has been running for a few years now, just upgrading a few things at this point.

 

Did you ever have a dyno session?

 

I never did but I think I'm going to try to get it done before we start. I will keep you posted.