Yes- in the center of the 12-ft span. If the posts to either side of the removed steps are solid & not moving (6x6?), you could lag a section of 4x4 PT to them (I'd use 3 bolts each at least 2" apart), then you can post-hole dig in the center. If not too northern, 24" deep will do. Set a ground-contact PT 4x4 in the hole, and you can fill with clean gravel & compact it (shale bar) as you go- that post will be rock solid. Then build a new doubled beam to sit on top of all 3 of those 4x4 posts. Looks like the face of the 6x6 was notched for the old beam- if solid, you can reuse that notch and have the outside of the new beam sit in there too. Spax makes some excellent structural exterior screws- I'd go thru the face of the new beam into the existing posts. The new beam should be full-length boards- no seams. You could use joist hangers to reattach the joists to the new beam. I am wondering if the typical 'winter; slowdown of outside construction projects' portion of the year will see supplies catch up as demand falls, and prices fall. It's primarily been pressure treated lumber that has skyrocketed- I've not noticed anywhere near the same increases in other materials... but perhaps I haven't bought in those categories recently. On May 16th, a 16-ft 5/4" PT deckboard was $9.77. About 3 weeks ago it was $26.77.
BTW- everything I've seen on those 'deck restore' products has shown them to be terrible as far as longevity.
I'd like to throw out another option besides treated pine (never liked it) or Trex (not completely sold on it's advantages). We had a 10' x 20' covered porch added to our house last year. We went with 5/4 x 3 tongue and groove Ipe wood for the decking/flooring. We wanted a traditional/old fashioned look. We researched & bought ours from www. advantagelumber.com. You might want to see what they have to offer and compare it to Trex.
Yes, the posts are notched 6x6 and solid. They did seem to try to build it properly but it is 30 years old. I'm not following exactly the 4x4 PT lagged to them. You mean under the joists as support for them? I can see where that would be sturdy. So, I pulled out one 2x10 where the steps were attached but you think I should put two back in as a beam? Then I would put the 4x4 post in the center and I would have the 4x4 beam lagged to the 4x4 post in the hole and the new 4x10 beam lagged to the same 4x4 post? We typically don't get a lot of snow but it sometimes drops below 0° but not for long. I have a buddy with a gas auger that he's going to let me borrow. Here's what I'm envisioning based on the suggestions I've received. A detailed view of the area to be supported and reinforced. Am I on the right page now?
I know you're joking but here it is. If a naked deck turns your crank. LOL BTW, anyone use TinkerCAD? It is a free 3D drawing program that I stumbled upon. It runs in a browser and it's what I used to create these pictures. Drawing it was easy. Drawing it to scale was a lot harder.
Thats what I was afraid of. That run is way too long! imo You need a beam half way running left to right or it will sag. imo
That's the post I'm adding to support the 2x10 that was originally sagging so bad. I never laid a level on it but the deck seemed to be pretty level except for the pronounced droop at the end with the big steps. Here's some additional bracing and decking end supports around the posts I'm going to install since Trex isn't as structurally rigid as wood. They are the red additions in this one.
Yes- tho I would consider putting the center 4x4 UNDER the new beam- holds a lot more weight that way. My prior suggestion was to take short sections of 4x4 and lag them to the insides of the 6x6’s. That way the new beam is supported under both boards rather than just the outer being held by the 6x6.
There's nothing to attach it to and it would be very low. The deck is only 2-3 steps above grade. I'm reading that 2x10 on 16" center can run 16' safely for a deck. I wouldn't use it for my living room but a deck should be fine for that. It looks like my frost line is less than 20" here so I'll drill it to be that far in the ground. OK, I see what you are saying. I still need the 4x10 beam in front as well? Is this what you are thinking?
You'd be fine with a doubled 2x8 instead of a doubled 2x10; the span (with the new center post) at 6 feet doesn't need 10" depth. If it's a matter of making the 'skirt' look uniform around the deck- that's fine. IMO you don't need that red cross beam at the stairs- the double 2x8 or x10 is doing all the structure/carrying. Here's a quick mod on one of your drawings if it helps to show what I'm saying I would do if it were on my house: A section of 4x4 PT, maybe 12-16" long (if you have the height), bolted thru to the existing 6x6. 1/2 galvanized bolts, 3 per side (the 3 black lines). Then I'd drive Spax structural screws thru the one 'face' 2x8 into the 6x6. Overbuild it. I just don't care for carrying any significant loads on fasteners alone (such as your suggestion of lagging the center post to the backside of the new beam).
OK, I think I'm seeing where it needs support. The front 6x6 posts are notched so the first 2x10 is sitting in the notch and carries the load. At this point, I'm thinking by adding the center support 4x4 PT 24" in the ground and resting both the end of center joist and the 2x10 on it should be sufficient. That will correct my sagging issue and the center bracing to add stability should give me a much more solid base.
Up here in mass. We always double the outside (rim joists) ! It looks to me like all you need to do is double up another 2x10 at stairs , if u want dig a hole mid span as deep as u feel necessary and pop in a 4x4 post . I pour all my posts right n concrete screw them stupid post bases !!! Notch post so it catches one 2x10 (. So 1-1/2” cut out) and cut post to top of frame . Put joist hangers on. Seeing as how so low to ground it would be tough to try and wrestle or build a support beam under at half span , but if it were me I would at least solid block in between joists with 2x10 at mid span Will stiffen things up a bit !! Good luck
Also when framing the end , have help and nail one end first and have guy /girl on other end work other end up or down as needed to flush up them joists to new framing member ! This should take out that dip ! I’d put at least 4-5 nails in every joust Then double it up and nail the piss out of it ! Then pop that post in and 3/4 bags of sackrete concrete .... then start drinking beers !!!!!
Here is on I’m finishing up now. Prices are stupid rite now ! 10 k in plastic and lumber and it’s really not that big !!!! Ouch
