getting real close to starting my project off...insurance gets put back on monday i'm planning on getting the 1st two stages completed within the end of may have 6k at the moment so i'll see what i have left for the other stuff :-D pretty much just want to know what you guys think of this setup and would like to see suggestsions/feedback and do u think i'll reach 300rwhp? thanks in advance guys heres a timeline of what i'll be doing stage1 installing turbo hood touch up body work fix passenger window crank raise windows so theres less of a gap in between rubber stipping getting brake setup off of 80's f-body getting frame ties and jounce bar from 80's? grand prix Eibach pro kit bilstein shocks adding tach gauge to empter cluster box adding A/C stage 2 dropping in 68/69 gs 350 (7 yr warrenty/100kmi) th350 race trans 6' or 9' tail? (1yr warrenty) heavy duty fuel pump 4-core rad 2.5 in duels "xpipe" with 40 series flowmaster jegs x member shorter fan shroud 3.42 posi rear MSD HEI setup stage 3 3300-3500 stall converter 750 eld q-jet 4b w/ manual choke TA stage 1 intake Hooker supercomp headers 268H cams lighter flywheel stage 4 25% tint all round 15X7 cragar series 390 "sprint" rims B/F Goodwrinch gforce radials rear 235/50/15 front 215/65/15 T-Type/GNX extrerior conversion New paint job
I am assuming your goals for this car is more of powerful fun driver as oppossed to a bracket car or something else. I kind of gather this from your interest in your previous posts. Well one thing you have in your favor is that your are starting your project with reasonable and adaquate funding. Most people do not. That being said you can easily get talked into spending it on things that are not neccessary to first reaching priority goals. And yea paint is last. :beer Ok hear is the feedback you requested. I bought the Eibach springs a little too firm and expensive for me. To do it again I would buy the Moog 5660s for the front and whatever back spring compliments it. I like them better and would save some cash in the process. Hmmn What cam, heads, valves, valvetrain, porting, as its where the power is made and the rest of the car combination needs to compliment it and it has to be made to meet your goals. ie driveability, such as power/rpm range. Durability, with regards to required maintenance as well as ability to withstand power level and rpm range you want it perform in. Pump gas, mileage, gearing, converter etc. Unless you have specific race goals, converter. Consider a max 3,000 stall or switch pitch tranny. Again assuming this is primarily a fast & fun driver and you actually expect to put some miles on a regular basis. Fuel mileage and trans heat would really suck even on the hwy with this much non lock up converter. Might be minor but consider the 800 QJ if you have the option. 268 H cam.. Hmm sounds like a chevy box cam. uzzled: 235/50/15 rear?? You mean 235/60s? Gforce is a great but expensive and unusual choice. Might also consider the Firestone Firehawks. Check out www.tirerack.com for prices, reviews and survey. Dave Dixon now deceased had a Regal with the same body style that his son who posts on hear, now has and enjoys. Dave had a website that showed his buildup his goals preferences etc that you should check out. Sorry I don't have a link. Best of luck and keep us updated.
In stage 2 you mentioned a 3.42 posi rear. Are you planning on replacing the gears within the 7 1/2 inch housing that came with the car or getting a 84 thru 87 Turbo Regal 8 1/2 inch differential. A complete posi-traction Turbo Regal or Olds 442 (with 3.73 gear ratio) differential will set you back between $600 to $1000 itself. The 7 1/2 inch differential will not hold up to the engine for long, with any sort of tires that hook.
yea its just going to be a fun summer car, might go to the tracks once or twice just to see what times i'd get but thats about it and oops, yea i ment 235/60/15 lol yea i'm getting an 8.5 rear with 3.42 gears aimming on finding one for around 650 will check out the springs and carb u listed as for tires i'll probly just get bf goodwrinch radial t'as thats what i have on them now for the rear anyways...got coopers on the front btw Vern what displacment is your spring setup supporting, v6, sbb, bbb? hey would a 200r4 w/ a no chip kit combo'd with a 3000 stall lockup converter sound more practical? thanks for the suggestions, keep em comming mike
The 8.5 is the ideal answer but their is also a company that sells a ready made ford 9 for the g-body. Its a little more than an 8.5 and sucks more power to turn it but its also stronger for the real drag cars. An inexpensive option that should work for you being that your goals are to stay with a small block and on regular radials is the Torsen posi carrier and Moser axels. SLP sells Torsen take outs from F bodys for like $100 and Moser would have axels for about $200. So for about $300 you could have a suitable unit for your needs. The problem is are we going to check in on you in 5 years and by then you are running a nitrous big block. fwiw I have owned a couple pair of the regular radial TAs some of which I bought new. I won't buy anymore they are popular and look nice but are cheap tires. Check out the link. My Eibachs are on the GN so they are supporting the v6 with turbo & intercooler. I don't know what it weighs. I still have the stock 345 pound rated springs in the Cutlass. I will move to the Moog 5660s. The Cutlass has the 509ci Cadillac motor. The Cad weighs 599lbs carb to oil pan with stock exhaust manifolds minus the brackets pulleys altenator & power steering pump. (which is how must published engine weights are weighed) I have moved to an aluminum intake which is suppossed to save 22lbs and have relocated the battery to the rear. Currently its probably not that much heavier than the stock 307 with the cast intake and battery up front. The 3,000 stall lock up converter sounds practical and gives you room to be aggressive with the cam. (for a street car) Even a say 230 @ 50 duration cam would work fine with that converter. This is probably about the most cam that you would want anyway for something that has power brakes and is to be a durable driveable motor. (As in traffic or to drive out of state etc.)
hey vern, one last question.. if i wanted to go fuel injected what kit/custom combo would u recommend? thanks again for everything
Sorry I have not researched that out. I think Jim at Tri Sheild Performance or Mike at TA performance could tell you as I believe they have built FI 455s. I am sure they have it down to a shopping list with dos & don'ts and costs. For the money time & effort required relative to cost & performance of a well set up Q-jet, bank for buck is just not there for my needs.
i know of two kits from holly....pro jection and comannder 950...might just stick to a carb setup for a while lol
