Well,,,, i decideded to to detail the riv under the hood,,, I have removed the hood already and in the process of sanding down the old paint underneath.... it is slow work but i aint in no hurry,,,,:grin: I intend to install one of the sw. pitch transmissions that came from the 1966 rivs that i parted out.... you out there Yaccy,,, how did you wire yours..... I am going to pull the engine/trans and get over in the engine bay and paint the sheet metal/crossmember/ firewall,,ect...... and rewrap the wires and reroute them.... also install the cast alluminum valley cover and the matching rocker arm covers.... probably will have to send the motor mounts out and have them rebuilt..... then all I will have left to do is the inside of the car....
Doc - Do you have the throttle position switch, the harness and the tiny linkage momentary stwitch for the SP set up? Once you've got those, it's easy. If you're looking to go manual control it's even easier, just 12v to the terminal. But you're still gonna need the throttle postion set up for the kickdown... And if you want to get real fancy, you can do what I did and put a Bruce Roe controller in the mix... I like mine, the timers work out well for the track and the vacuum sensor seems to come in just when you need the rpms for street driving...
I'm here Doc :grin: I used a Bruce Roe timer (bcroe@juno.com) http://gmcmotorhome.info/SWITCH.html I (and Tom T) installed a momentary switch (on the center console). Push the button, kick down a gear, go fast!:Brow:
By installing a toggle swith as shown in the illustration and if you have the OE wiring installed as well, this will give you a choice as to whether you choose to control the pitch of the converter vanes manually or let it work the way the factory designed it. Ed View attachment Toggle switch set up for ST400 with switch pitch.bmp
Well,,, I got the underside of the hood sanded down to the bare metal and treated the rust spots with ''the right stuff'' to kill the rust and then sprayed semi-gloss black on and it turned out very well.....p Looks much better than it did.....now I just have to keep it safe untill I get it back on the car.... :Brow:ray: I used a 6'' scotchbright wheel from 3M company that was absolutely indispensable,, it had enough diameter that it would reach to the bottom of the recesses and yet was thin enough to go down in the narrow valley spaces between the braces and the edges of the hood... and naturally the orbital sander and the rolox wheels... got to be care full not to heat the metal up and burn the paint on the other side of the hood though....:idea2: I got more pics but cannot sort out how to post them.....
Doc, looks good. Make sure you use "prep sol" or some other brand pre paint solvent to get any oils left behind. That last little detail will make or break a paint job.
Nope on the insulation,,, that is what caused the rust in the first place.....:Brow: the stuff holds moisture between it and the sheet metal.....
Then I would get some more paint up under the support structure. Once its back on the car that will stick out like a sore thumb. I over looked that when I did the under side of my hood and I regret it now.
I hear ya,,, but when you get down and look from the side that does not show at all.... from either side.... dont know why looking at it with the eye it does not show up and then does in the foto.... i got up from the computer and went out and checked it again when I saw the picture.... but I got some sore thumb paint.....:Brow::Brow:
Well to up date,,, i have removed all the stuff off the engine that i could without pulling the engine out... that will come Monday am.... :Brow: I took the exhaust manifolds, and put them into my sandblasting box... and when they were finished , i ground all the knuckle skinners off of them.... I rounded up the little jar of CALYX exhaust manifold coating to put on them... how to do this..????o No: I know,,:idea2: so I go into the bathroom and get the little wifeys tooth brush... It had fine , soft little bristles,,, :Brow: just right for spreading the stuff... and worked great.... She came out and brought me a glass of tea , and did not notice at all....:laugh::laugh: The stuff went on just like the manufacturer claimed it would.... now if it just holds up,,, Gotta hide that toothbrush though,,:Brow: Got the water manifold sand blasted clean , about to paint it.... ground the knuckle skinners off of it too.... knuckle skinners is also known as,, ''casting flash, or lines....'':Brow: well, gotta start squirting paint.....
Looks great Doc! What kind of semi gloss are you using? That looks very clean.I am getting ready to get started on my hood.Can't wait to see more.
Thats to darn funny. I'd be the one to do something like that but I'd clean it and put it back like nothing ever happened.
You probably aint ready for this..... it is rustolium..... works real good.....:eek2: Briz,,,, nah,,,,, i need the brush in my shop,,,,,and,,,,,, I gotta kiss that woman.....:Brow::laugh::laugh:
Lets see,,,,, where are we.... I have got the engine out,,,, and everything taken off of it.... i just set the carb aside, nothing to do to it....it is new.... Then I removed the ac/alt bracket , the PS bracket, the waterpump pulleys, the crank pulleys,,, the engine mounts.... then I sandblasted the brackets and painted them Buick green.... and the pulleys I painted satin black,,,,,, then I removed the intake, it is a Doc dual plane.... but I needed to refine it some , because it was the very first original one that i did.... did some smoothing inside.... fine adjusted the adapter that i made.... and then port matched the heads ....then painted it green.... When I port matched the heads , to keep the metal chips from getting down into the engine, I filled each runner with shaving cream and then when i was thru, I shop vac ed the chips/shaving cream out.... worked good.... I have to clean the motor mounts up before I can tell their condition.... i pulled the timing gear cover/water pump and apparently the engine was short blocked just before i bought the car.... but,,,, they used the ratty alluminum/plastic factory gear that wont hold up... so I am replacing that.... but it aint wore out..... not much slack.... i have seen several of those fail.... so it goes.... I also completely rebuilt the starter and painted it up..... i sandblasted and treated the exhaust manifolds with calyx,,,, that stuff works good , we will see how long it last before it rusts again..... and the saga continues ......
Well,,, after much hassel,,, i have pictures of the inner fenders and the firewall..... View attachment 239548 View attachment 239547
