there are plenty of people with stock rods and cranks with no girdles running 6500. i dont think i need a girdle to turn 6200.. i dont understand what you mean about hiding IP? this is what i plan on. budget will decide in the end... said shortblock assembly. (already acquired all the above parts) ta aluminum heads. not sure which. really depends on if another set of headers is in the budget. edelbrock heads (if buick rollers arent in the budget) spx intake. 1050 dommie 2 inch headers. didnt think i was hiding anything?
The full block girdle will, but not the cap girdle only. The other way you can look at it, is you lower your RPM expectations a bit, and make the heads and cam match. How about nitrous? Can you share the cylinder head info? What kind of flow are you expecting/aiming for? EDIT: IP = Intellectual Property. I dunno, sometimes people like to keep their race secrets under wraps. I noticed you mentioned you were working with Mike P, wasnt sure if u wanted to share info about speed parts. Ive never revved a BBB that high, nor do I claim to be an expert. But I think the people turning those revs are street cars where the revs are seen occasionally. In a race car you are turning those regularly. Thats two different animals, and longevity is an issue.
i have nitrous but with 12 to 1 compression i dont really want to mess with it when my horspower expectations are already at 600. i will move the nitrous to the suncoupe. will race the suncoupe with 2.56s and the 455 thats in my chevelle now. and spray it and still kick butt. already posted head expectations. really depends on what kind of side work i get between now and when i need the heads.. hopefully a lot of people need their hot rods worked on this spring. have a couple gear swaps and 2 more motors to build. but who knows when the people will have the :dollar: for me to finish them
I've no race secrets to keep from anyone. if i ever had a good idea someone has probably done it perfected it and it became obsolete. as im not the engineering type. im good at measuring calculating and putting things together. ive talked to quite a few people on this site about things pertaining to this build. ive talked to john zerucha about running methanol with this motor but he informed me he wouldnt run methanol without a vacuum pump and an extra 800 dollars might not be in the budget that would curse me to go edelbrock heads before i even started. then i really wouldnt want to go to 6500 without a stud girdle
Red car has 3.42 gears. Rev limiter at 6200 I think. Shift point is 5800. In Noble, mph was 126 I think on the 10.71 pass with the street tires. 1.58 60'. We tried to run 4.11 gears in the black car since it was 1/8 mile tracks. went back to the 3.42's. Our cars seem to like that gear. If you are going to be in the 10's, then probably 125mph or so. 3.42 is probably your gear.
i have 462 cu in, shot peened and polished beam buick rods, oil mods, balanced rotating assembly, 11 to 1 comp, ported S1 heads, SP1 intake 232--248 cam , 800 Qjet, 373 gears, 4000 SP 400 tranny. i have reved to almost 7000 before, and taken it to 6500 many times. usually shift at 6000 when i race it. moter is 10 years old now, with about 10K. it reves up very fast, the nearly 7K revs were when it was new and i was not use to the horse power and how much faster it reved compared to my old nearly stock 455.
I turn my stock shot peened rods to 6500 all the time, but I may just be lucky. Plus, I think breaking stuff is fun. So far so good. My motor has been together for a while, with about 10k of HARD driving, but I am usually on the street.
Lonnie, 3.73 gears with a 28" tire is closer to 3.55's. 600 HP in a light car should easily put you at about 125 MPH through the traps. Formula for RPM is 336/tire height X rear gear X MPH. That's with no converter slip. So 125 MPH, with a 28" tire and 3.73's is 336/28 X 3.73 X 125 = 5595 RPM. With 5% converter slip, you are close to 5900.
the first time i went to the track with my car i was shifting on a 5500 shift light the actual shift was probably around 5700 and its tight clearances stock rods not balanced cast pistons with stock rod bolts. with h beam rods and oil mods 6k doesnt seem to scary. hopefully i can hook with this new combo. plan on getting adjustable uppers and an anti roll bar to help and cutting some weight hopefully i can get it done with a 28x10.5
hope i can make it live. hey larry, what clearances did jim end up on your motor for 600 hp? on the mains. .0025 on the rods should be good i would think.
Not sure Lonnie. When he took it apart after the Dyno runs, and found the #4 main was showing signs of a problem, he mentioned that he might have built it too tight. He said he wasn't expecting 600 HP. He will also add a balance line also, so the motor gets oiled from the front and back.
right. do you think i should add a balance line and restrict oil to the rockers since i plan on running a solid?
Balance line doesn't hurt, especially if you want to rev it past 6000. http://automachperf.com/oilsystems.html I'd leave the rockers alone.
That is what I did and the motor has lived this long. I have it set at 45 pounds hot oil pressure at idle.
was the balance line not considered obsolete? i thought i read something about that. but i guess if jim w is doing it, it still works
The "balance line" being discussed provides a direct feed to the rear of the right lifter galley using a hose plumbed from the front of the engine. See http://www.v8buick.com/showpost.php?p=1726754&postcount=9 and http://www.v8buick.com/showpost.php?p=1644379&postcount=12 The obsolete bypass you're thinking of is the use of tubing to tie the right and left galleys together at the rear, see http://70.86.163.37/attachment.php?attachmentid=90194&d=1174058702 . Newer cam bearing technology made that one obsolete. Devon
Larry's motor was .0027 +/- .0002 on the mains. After further inspection and working with it, I determined that block flex was the issue with his number 4 main.. 32 full throttle pulls, on a non-filled or girdled block at that HP level, is pretty tough on that thin wall casting.. the dyno is much harder on the motor than any other normal use would be. When I went to check it out, regardless of what I did, we could not get that main saddle to pull round consistantly.. pretty sure there is a crack in #4 bulkhead we can't see. Larry had supplied a block, and it was "ok" for use.. but wasn't the thickest thing I had ever seen.. probably should have set that aside for a sub 500 HP motor, but hindsight is 20/20, and I always try hard to use customer parts when they supply them. That and nobody expect it to make that kind of power, I thought it would be more in the 560 HP range. I had to set that block aside, and am in fact building him an entirely new bottom end, and we are stepping back a little on the roller cam, to increase useable pwr and mileage at the rpm ranges he is going to use the motor in most of the time.. unlike a lot of us Larry drives that car a lot, and on long highway trips, with is OD setup. Building him the right motor for his usage, is more important than building one to reach some arbitrary number. Time and effort on a project like this, is what prototyping a new combo is all about, not to mention the $$$ it has cost me, but that's how we learn. I am happy to have a customer who is willing to go thru the process with me. As far as the balance line, that goes from the front to the rear of the RH main galley, to insure that consistant pressure is available at all 5 mains. There are several different routings for that line, but they all do the same thing. A good idea for any motor, but becomes more important, once you start working the parts harder, about about 575+ HP/6000+rpm. If your going to spin that thing up past 6000 rpm regulary, I would feel more comfortable with the clearances a little looser, and that equalization line in place. A lot of times, what your doing with clearance has nothing to do with oiling, in the stock block 455, at high HP levels and high rpms, your giving the parts room to move around a bit.. and trust me, they do. JW
