Well got started on lowering the front end. Tubular upper control are with ProForged tall upper and tall lowers. Got it all apart today and need to replace the lower control arm bushings. What is a good choice to use? See moog has two different type for the same A body. Mine are round and do not have the oval shape on the control arms. Here a pic of the new lower spring next to the OEM stock spring.
Moog is what I use. Many threads on CA bushings - do a search. Example: https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?t...g-front-suspension-parts.371472/#post-3229299
This is what the Moog website is showing for lower control arm bushing for 70-72. https://www.moogparts.com/find-my-p...]=Buick&model[value]=1984&model[label]=GS 455
Sometimes it is just easier to look for the Chevelle equivalent when it is frame/chassis related and not Buick specific, aka rear end or engine/trans. About all the control arms, front and rear plus all the steering linkage are the same.
Thanks Greg, Wonder why they are showing a different part for Buick when, as you say " are all the same". You can understand my confusion. Parts ordered, should have this all done next weekend.
I work at Napa and nearly everything is wrong in our books that is Buick specific. For example our books show that our cars ONLY came with a 12 bolt rear. Much front drum parts are not shown, you have to look under Skylark to find those. U joints, again for a 12 bolt. I have gotten used to it because I work at a parts store. So many times I have bought stuff for a "70 Chevelle" that I don't own.
They used the oval bushing sometimes in the standard suspension like malibu or skylark. Supposedly the ovals are for a more cushioned ride. F41 suspension will not use them.
All installed this weekend. Thanks Guys for all the help getting the right part number. The lower control arm bushing were shot. Front end down 2" form 28"
On Friday the last of the steering components came in (inner and outer tie rods links) an was able to get an early start. Getting the toe in an keeping the steering wheel center toke some time but got it done. Steering is tight and the only play i have is the gear box. After a test drive around the block, i was amazed on how much better the handling was. It is as they said, "Night and Day". So after the test drive and parked, i had notice the suspension had seated even more than I'd had hope for. So from 28" to 25" drop.. That's a three inch drop. An inch more than i had calculated. Hotchkis 1" lowering spring and 0.5 tall lower ball joint should have given me 2" drop, Factoring an 1.5" drop for the spring. The new 1.25" sway bar is rubbing on the frame just a bit near the end links and i'm getting a rubbing nice on tight right turn and its not the tire. So looks like i need to remove the taller lower ball joint and see if i can get back 1/2" of lift. Anyway who doesn't like picture. Some before and after. Before. After Before. After. Before. After. Note: these after pic don't show the real drop. These where taking before the many speed bump i went over heading home when i notice the issue.
You can change the end link sleeve to lower the bar eyes. The arms should be level with the ground. That might help. Also, double check the bolts on the tie rod sleeve. The ends need to be pointed away from the sway bar or they can hit. Also, the rear looks lower. Did you change those springs?
Yeah the rear spring where replace as well. I'll need to raise it an inch. The sway bar is installed as you stated. It's rubbing the frame as it curve in on both sides. Just enough to cause a scuff marks.
