I am going to be putting my GS back to full street duty next year, as I have reached my goal of getting it in the 10's in full street trim. Therefore, I will be building a strictly race car for bracket racing and just having fun with at the Buick events. The car is a 70 Skylark frame and body shell that I just purchased from Tom Rix. (Thanks again Tom!!) My goal is to have a fun, safe, reliable car that I eventually want to go mid 9's with. I plan on building a full 12 Pt cage, and utilizing front and mid plates. The car will have glass fenders, hood, deck lid and bumpers. The hood will be removable, as well as the entire front clip for more serious engine work. My weight goal is 2900 lbs. This should be achievable since it will be a race only car with no extra amenities. My question to some of you that have gone this route already is, should I spend the extra $ and go for the entire rear clip and the four link set-up, or can I get away with bumping in the rear frame rails and building mini-tubs? If I do the mini-tubs, how far can I move the frame and suspension in before I encounter a handling issue? Is 3" per side acceptable? I would plan on using a Ford 9" (I know, I know) and utilizing the brackets from a donor 10 bolt. Any help with your experienced opinions would be greatly appreciated!! P.S. I have done both modifications to several vehicles in the past, so I do have experience in chassis mods. I am just looking for other professional opinions. Thanks!!
Some more info will help narrow the choices. How much are you willing to spend, How soon do you want it completed, How much time are you willing to spend dialing everything in, How often will you be racing, Is there a certain class you are interested in? A light car (full tube and fiberglass) will take less power to go fast and be eaiser on parts, but it will cost more to build. If it's possible that's my recommendation. I will also recommend the widest tire you can get only because it takes less work to get them to stick.
Hey Steve, Should be plenty of examples to look at in Salem. A few cars that I would be taking a close look at would be those of: Gary Kubish, Rob Chilenski and Rick Martinez. These three cars are pretty much what your talking about, but each dose it a little differently. Good Luck
Good idea Shayne I was planning on doing just that. Talk to several different racers with different setups and hear what they have to say, good or bad. Alan, my original goal was to take next year off from racing, but I might just have the car far along enough to run it at the mid or end of season. Money wise, I could save about $3000 by going with the mini-tubs and kicked in frame rails vs. four link. If after talking to the right people, I find that I will not be happy with the results, I will just spend the money up front for the four link. I do realize that a four link set-up is far superior to the other option. As far as the time spent setting up the chassis, I have done enough of that in my day that it will not be an issue. I don't want to spend a ton of money on a full tube chassis. That's a great deal more time and cost than I wish to tackle at this point. Just want a fun, safe, reasonably fast car that looks good too!!
If you want a 2900lb car I think your better off back halfing the car .This will be the easiest way to make the car that light.I my opinion moly is the only material to use once again lighter.You need to contact NHRA on rule changes for roll cages I think 2005 is bringing some changes even for 9 sec cars this way you will be legal. On the other hand mini tub cars are nice Gary K's car is awesome it works very well,alot of thaught went into this car and it shows in the final product.But his car ways 3400lb it's going to be hard to drop 500lb off the car without turning it into swiss cheese.
Steve.... Knowing what you want before you start building will go a long way!! The reason is this:Most guys start in the 11's and then over the years end up in the 9's rebuilding the car a time or two through the process. Since you're starting from scratch,you will end up with a nicer finished product. I have some pretty good ideas.......I can see a car that will accomodate a 14x32 rear but for the sake of pure coolness you mostly run a 10.5x31w.......Less tire will make the car faster down track but if you need the larger tire on a bad a track the it will fit. I'll PM you my #.....Feel free to call
A real long time ago a close friend, Andy Miller (runs Oldsmobiles) told me that unless the car does not hook because of shear horsepower don't back half the car. He went on to tell me that just by back halfing it will net you 2 tenths from the weight reduction. I backed halfed my GS and netted the 2 tenths. Then after that I saw how these guys were running low 10's and mid to high 9's on 10" tires! Gary you hit it right, my car was a project first started as an eleven second street car and progressed over the years to now. Doing it all over back then I would of waited on the back halfing. Currently with my new engine I would now need the 14x 32 tire, but even now I still have my old ladder bar setup, no doubt a 4-link will be down the road for me but only if the car does not hook. Steve your on the money setting your goals first. The enjoyment will be when the project is done and you reached those goals. My advise on what you seem to be aiming at. Take a good look at Rob Chilenski's 70 GS, he'll be racing it at Salem. He is running 10" tires or so with mini tubs and a Dick Miller rear control arm setup, Rob has gone high 9.40's and his car weighs around 3100 pounds and that's with steel Stage 1 heads! Now that's trick! Think of it this way. A fat tire car looks cool on the street and is expected to run 9's on the track, but a small tire car at the track running 9's is better and more of a head turner, especially after you show them that it's a Buick engine and not a BBC. See ya at Salem
Depends on what you want to do Steve.. if your just out to go fast and make a few laps having some fun, then go with the mini tubs and a 10-12" tire.. If you want to roll into a bracket race, with your setup dialed in, and have a better than not chance of going rounds, then the big tires take a lot of track condition situations out of the equation. Yes, they may slow you down a bit, but there are always lots of fast cars that don't hook on anything less than a perfect track, on the trailer after round 1.. JW
Gary Kubich could lose 500 lbs. on his car if he'd strip out the interior!! I think he keeps it all in there, passenger seat and all to take girls for scary rides.:Brow:
