Seems everyone knows all about them except me. what size wheel do i want? how wide? 15" diameter? how long do they last? do they get old? Should I run 9/16 studs in the rear? I will need all of this so as long as im doing it Id rather do it once.
Depends mostly on application. Slicks are not street friendly. Slicks do not react as quickly as radials as far as reaction time. Longevity also depends on driving and the power being put into them. If ya do huge smokey burn outs to heat up the tire they wont last as long as if ya just spin em over enough to get stickey. If your a bit slow on the light a DR will give you a better RT and vise versa on a slick. Bead locks are a good idea on either one. Have personally spun a wheel inside the tire and ripped off a valve stem on launch. Let go of the button and make a R or L turn.
15x10 with a 5.5in back space for 70/72 cars A MT 275 60 pro will hook well on most applications A 325/50 MT is another good choice The 28 10.5 Pro bracket is another good choice Hoosier quick time pro 28 or even the 29.5 11.50 is a great tire depending on your rear gear ratio I wouldn't even fool with a bias ply/tube tire No need for locks on most anything on this site just being honest,...few cars but the VAST majority are fine without especially with a radial Locks are more for bias ply guys running 8lbs to 12lbs...and or making good power on a brake,. And of course BIG power radial guys
If you run a Stepchild (‘68-‘69) then 9” is the safe width on factory 15x7 rims. I had a hard time finding drag radials in stock and wound up buying Hoosier slicks. I went with a 26”x9” whch is essentially a 255/60. As for studs, I’ve run stock axles and studs on a car that runs low 13s, hoping for high 12s. I’d guess a ‘65 would be similar size wise. Patrick
I always heard there is a big difference in feel at the top end of the track with slicks vs. drag radials. Car moves around a bit with slicks? I manage to hook with DR's. 1.62 short time isn't stellar, but I am happy with it.
I have run slicks and DOT drag radials. With our relatively heavy cars with automatic trans and , say, under 550 HP, or slower than 11.50 sec ET, I found no real difference in ability to hook up with either type of tire. Even 9" tread width tires hook hard. DOT type Drag radials are much heavier sidewalls, do not run tubes, and CANNOT be screwed to the rim and they are definitely more stable feeling at the top end. True drag slicks are very thin sidewalls, should run a tube, and should ideally be screwed to rim. I would run 18-22 psi in DOT drag radials at the track, and much lower with drag slicks. Stick cars really need the slick as it is slower to break and more apt to stay hooked. Once the DOT radials break, you're done, they'll just keep spinning. Great to get details here on rim width and backspace combo for various year bodies. Most DOT drag radials that will fit our cars will go on a 8" wide rim, and at least a 4.5 backspace, and maybe wider tires on a 9" or 10" rim. A 10" wide rim is VERY wide. Will only fit 64/65 chassis with exact backspace and tire combo with very tight clearance and shorter tire. Don't forget your driveshaft loop once you add sticky tires. Best advice is to go to the manufacturer's websites and do research. Mickey Thompson has a ton of detailed info and mounting recomendations including wheel sizes for various tire size and type. You can even call the tech line. Great knowledgable folks there. Other manufacturers likely have similiar info.
You don't need 9/16 studs unless you are making BIG power and putting it to the ground. I ran 7/16 for years running low 12's. Now 1/2". I'd be more concerned w/ factory trans yoke, U-joints, rear yoke. Those are easily upgraded to stronger parts. Even stock rear gears will take a lot of abuse and keep coming back for more.
