Just Burned Up The Alternator

Discussion in 'Sparky's corner' started by slimtanone88, Aug 20, 2004.

  1. IDOXLR8

    IDOXLR8 Senior Member

    Alternator Problems

    The brown wire is a resistor wire that comes off the "amp" light. AL.
     
  2. slimtanone88

    slimtanone88 Active Member

    Update: I took the alternator to an old time auto electrical shop and the results of their test indicate the alternator works! Puts out, etc. Now I am really spinning wheels!

    AMP light on with car running only.

    Just to recap: New #10 wire direct from horn relay junction to alternator.

    The two wire socket is new and ohm's out back to regulator.

    Regulator voltages running: F=11.57V, 2=0.01, 3=12.18, 4=6.67
    Regulator voltages off: F=.22, 2=0, 3=11.8 4=0

    I have the regulator grounded like original to negative of battery cable.

    Brown# 4 to amp guage, Pink to amp guage and ignition switch,
    Pink reads 11.7V running and this is a problem but don't know where to turn. Pink reads 0 with car off.

    Battery is at 12.7V and never goes higher with car running

    Checked the brown resistor wire that comes off the #4 bown in the connector panel and ties into the fuse box and it looks fine, tight, clean.

    The only other wire that is tied to the ignition switch Pink is a resistor wire that goes to the coil and yellow to starter but have no known problems in these areas. Car runs great.

    Even though it looks as if the alternator is at fault it tests good.

    Thanks to all those who gave suggestions and if there is anything else you can think of let me know, I guess I will have to run the car to the shop.

    I read somewhere on the board about a voltage drop test between +B and the case of the alternator is this something I should check, cannot remember the instructions.

    Slim
     
  3. slimtanone88

    slimtanone88 Active Member

    Got the alternator back in, checked all connections and started it up. AMP light goes out on high idle/revving and comes back on at normal idle. The high idle must make the #4 brown wire the same voltage as the pink wire so no light. Alternator might still be a problem at low rpm's.
     
  4. RAbarrett

    RAbarrett Well-Known Member

    One thing I am not seeing, and maybe I missed it was the reading on the red wire. This wire is the main, large one carrying the charging current to the electrical system. It should read electrical system voltage, AT ALL TIMES. If not, the alternatopr may be damaged by excessive voltage, and still not charge the battery. You might also check the alternator ground. Using a volt meter, connected between the alternator frame and the battery ground should yield no more than .5 volts. The death of the last alternator may have damaged the connection to the battery, and may be the cause of the problem here. let me know...
     
  5. slimtanone88

    slimtanone88 Active Member

    Ray,
    The voltage to alternator key off 12.7V and on it's 12.6V.

    I will do the test from alternator case to battery negative.

    I took off the Wells solid state alternator and put an old style one in and the results are better. The AMP light is still on but barely.
    At idle it is reading 10.05V and I know the Pink wire is 11+v.

    I tap the gas a little and the light goes out. I don't know if I can trust this to go driving and wonder if I got a freash new regulator it may be the fix.

    Thanks for the tip!

    Slim
     
  6. Michael Evans

    Michael Evans a new project

    I was wondering when this problem started for you?

    From my following of this thread, It sounds like to me that the alternator case is not getting a good ground. Check the connection from the alt. case to chasse.

    If getting anything more that 0 Ohms than maybe you should either clean all the connections (paint,grease,etc.) or run a separate wire to create a good ground.
     
  7. slimtanone88

    slimtanone88 Active Member

    Well I think it's done. I installed a Powermaster 100AMP alternator
    and changed out the #10 wire to a #4. Put in an underdash voltmeter and fired it up and it charges great! I now have 13.5 volts at the battery where with the other alternator it was always at 12.5 or so and it was never charging. The shop may have said the alternator put out but only at the high end. for some reason it never worked down low. I did the new alternator as a one wire. The idle amperage on this unit is 70.

    The new unit gets warm at idle and I suspect it will cool down when the car is on the road. When all lights are on, radio, etc. the voltage guage drops slightly but still in the healthy charging range.

    On the belt tension, what is good? I have mine snug and when I press down with my fingers on it it gives about a quarter inch. Is this ok?

    Thanks again to all!

    Lou
     

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