I intended to take my generator to an old man in town and let him check my generator. Prepared by disassemble it. But it turned out that he had become blind and did not work anymore. Is it difficult to measure the parts yourself with just a multimeter?
Do you have a service manual? It should describe what and where to check. It likely isn't difficult to check, just a matter of knowing what the values given mean.
I have a service manual for the car but this is a rebuilt alternator so it does not match. Have tried to find movies on youtube.
Yeah I just noticed the car is a '68 in your signature and that is a later year internally regulated, SI, alternator. Google will be your friend and it looks like it takes a bit of digging for the detailed info. http://www.chargerr.com/Alternators/ALT.HTM http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/how-check-rebuild-g-m-internal-regulated-alternator-117479.html
when I do the same i get: 4,03 4,61 3,39 When i do the same i get: 2,97 2,96 3,49 i can not find that mode on my tool. 20uf would be the clostest thing, or "2nF"...
The last pic is a capacitor and the 20uf is the setting for checking the capacitors microfarad level.
I get 0 in that setting. But I have a more modern condenser with black plastic. And a diode is nearly 0.5 volts stronger. Is that ok?
Just out of curiosity, is there a particular issue with this alternator? What does it do when its on the car?
I'm searching for a power leak. This one is a cheap rebuild 100A. A screw was loose, I did wrong, and a nut came loose on the inside. Took it apart to fix the screw and nut. And planned to leave it to a man who works with alternators/starters. Unfortunately he had become blind, and not working anymore. Thought that I could check the parts now while it is open.
Yes, drawn in the system. I was hoping it was the alternator but it was not. Must be something inside the car.
3 screws on it. * 1 = 4,12 * 2 = 4,69 * 3 = 3,46 (turned cables around and discharged after each measurement.) Is this good or bad?
Honestly I'm not sure what the numbers are supposed to be. I've always know that if your alternator is draining the battery it's the rectifier causing it.
The obvious question is- with the alternator not installed and wires to alternator taped off, is the draw still present in the car?
I have mounted a new Powermaster CS130 alternator now and look for a pigtail. Considering choosing 'Painless 30707'. I am not sure, but I think both cables seem to have the same diameter on the picture. According to a remodeling guide so should one (red) cable be thicker. However, people seem satisfied with the products from Painless Performance. Do I need to be worried about using 30707?
Well i will say it's not just painless in this case. The cs130 is failure prone in general. I've done the cs144 conversion on my Buick and Chevy. Way better. It well handle way more abuse than the cs130. That resistor goes inline if you don't have a warning light( gen light).
To check the rectifier, put the meter in resistance mode (ohms). Check across each of the 3 rectifiers (diodes). In one direction (forward biased) the ohm reading should be low (like less than a few ohms) and the voltage drop will be 0.5 to 0.7 volts. Reversing the leads (reverse biased) and measuring in the other direction, the resistance reading should be high (or open), like a few thousand ohms or higher. Voltage (or current) leaks over time usually indicate a bad rectfier
