Hi all! Getting ready to swap my Poston Intake to a TA performance. Last time the intake was off, I saw I have one of those pan gaskets. I assume thats what I need to replace it with, rather than a normal intake? Not sure of the year of the 455 block used. Thanks
I prefer the composite intake gaskets. I use the Fel pro or TA composite gaskets and cut up an old pan gasket like the directions of the TA catalog shows to stop the oil splash to bottom of intake and PCV valve. The old metal pan works too. I just feel the composite gaskets are a better seal. I have had the metal ones leak before. (Not on a Buick but on other engines) Greg
If you don't baffle that PCV valve you will look like a 'skeeter truck in high gear at WOT, about 81.2845697 MPH. Yep, happened to me.
I agree with avmechanic on the composite gaskets. Another option for the splash shield is the one sold by Mike Phillips shown below. They are also reusable. http://www.automachperf.com/descriptions.html You can reach Mike at ampmike@aol.com
For composite gaskets. The Fel pro part number is PN. 1357. Edelbrock also makes composite gaskets PN. 7246 and SCE Accuseal also makes some in different thicknesses. PN. 171104, and of course TA Performance TA-1710. I have only used TA and Fel Pro Personally. Greg
Does the composite require the same amount of sealant around all the ports as the metal gasket? Thanks
The seperate gasket/valley pan is the right way to go, but do yourself a favor and buy yourself a 40.00 USB endoscope to look down the ports and get the gasket alignment correct before you sock it all down.
No. You just need some silicone to seal the end composite gasket to the end seals at the joints. If you really want you could coat the composite gaskets with some spray tack or copper spray but they are fine dry. I would also coat the little tabs of the original pan gasket that you leave on after trimming per the TA directions. They need a little coating with silicone. Preferably a good second generation silicone like a Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Grey. I have identified the locations in the picture. Greg
I can confirm that the valley pan style gasket is a bit awkward to use. I never used a composite gasket but it sure does look easier to use. Regarding the rubber strips that are supposed to go on the sides of the block underneath the intake. There are different opinions on those. The instructions from Fel Pro stated you should dry fit the gasket and measure the gap between the intake and block. Based on this measurement the rubber strip should be replaced by RTV if the gap is too small, or completed by RTV if it is too large. This is possible to get wrong. Then the ends of the rubber strip are supposed to always get some RTV on them. I got the feeling the RTV might not bond well with the rubber long term. If I ever redo my intake gasket I think I will do what many others do and just seal the whole thing with RTV right away and eliminate these sources of errors.
Original valley pan gasket. It aligns easily and tabs hold it in place. Rtv on both sides of coolant passages. A light copper spray coat on both sides of ports. Rtv at each corner of end seals, done. 72 heads and up use a different valley pan than 71 and below. Check your head casting.
I have always used the original style valley pan as well. Always used a new one. No problems. Sealant as described above, but less is more.
