Installing points conversion, and HEI System function, tests, and modification.

Discussion in 'Buick FAQ' started by LARRY70GS, May 13, 2012.

  1. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    Yes, you have it right. It can be difficult to line the oil pump up at times, just turn it as you need to. Just make sure to fully seat the distributor and tighten the hold down sufficiently so the distributor does not pop up when you start the engine.

    As far as finding TDC compression, make sure you bump the starter over a little at a time instead of cranking it, you can run past the mark like that. When you feel compression the mark should be coming around. Turn it the rest of the way with a socket and breaker bar if you can. It’s OK to line the balancer mark up with the tab for the initial timing you plan to run. Good luck.
     
  2. drspencer

    drspencer Well-Known Member

    Will a Buick,or aftermarket, HEI fit under the stock Ram Air cleaner?
    Thanks
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    Frequently, no.
     
  4. 71 GS

    71 GS Well-Known Member

    Thanks again Larry , once I set the timing & re-fitted the distributor she fired up and ran beautifully ! a few things to tidy up and the job is done . Thanks again regards Darryn
     
  5. 71 GS

    71 GS Well-Known Member

    Hi Larry , took the GS for a road test last night and feels smooth but I think it could be better, might put my timing light back on it , what's the recommend degrees for the 350 4bbl auto transmission, I think its 4-6 BTC or would it run better at a different mark now that I've installed the HEI.
     
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    This is EXACTLY why I wrote this thread,

    http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/power-timing-your-buick-v8.63475/

    Initial timing means next to nothing. Distributors have different amounts of mechanical advance. Depending on what you have (did you buy the TA big cap HEI?), initial timing requirements will vary. It is the total timing at WOT and cruise that matters for best power and gas mileage. You need to set the total timing using your timing light. Read the 1st post in the linked thread and download the attached word document.
     
  7. 71 GS

    71 GS Well-Known Member

    Thanks Larry, Really happy with my turn out followed instructions made the mark around the harmonic balancer & got the revs right so the mark wouldn't climb up and lock it in ! Man what a difference I've never had performance like that on this car, the only trouble I had was the HEI
    hitting the manifold so had to move no1
    around the cap about 3 time till I got right & the vacuum hose is facing the fan with about an inch clearance not ideal but didn't want to file anything . Cheers Darryn
     
  8. 71 GS

    71 GS Well-Known Member

    Hi Larry,
    I've been reading some threads on V8buick regarding improving the street performance of my 1971 GS 350 4bbl
    looking at stages bit by bit & I think I might start with rear differential & up grading to a possi drive , not sure what I have but it's not a possi drive ! know idea where to find one ? can I just replace the diff head to get the gearing I need , or what's the best way to go about it , or would you have a completely different idea regarding performance etc .
    Appreciate your time, thanks regards Darryn
     
  9. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    You need to buy a Posi Carrier. If the rear in your car is original, it is the 8.5 10 bolt. It's an excellent rear with lots of aftermarket support. You can order everything you need right out of the Jegs or Sumitt catalog. I would contact V8 member Monzaz. He might be able to get you better prices as he builds these rears for a living. I went with the Eaton Posi carrier. This is the one you need if you still have the 8.5

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/etn-19557-010/overview/

    Take a picture of the rear cover and rear U-joint retention to confirm you still have the 8.5.
     
  10. 71 GS

    71 GS Well-Known Member

    Thanks for that I really appreciate your help , Would you advise me to change my gear ratio as well ? as I'm trying to achieve a faster take off speed or just stick to the possi carry to gain traction control with my factory gearing.
    Once I send some images to you I'm guessing you would know exactly what my gear ratio is. Thanks
     
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    Not sure of the gearing, there are letter codes on the axle tube.
     
  12. Cutlass

    Cutlass Platinum Level Contributor

    Need some help locating the right cable to replace. I got the cable from year one to feed the coil always with 12V.
    Are the highlighted ones the right ones? What color is the stock cable at the connector @ the fuse block?
    upload_2020-5-2_16-44-30.png
     
  13. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    It's the positive coil wire, the one listed as 1.8 Ohm resistance wire. Just open the harness and trace it back.
     
  14. 71 GS

    71 GS Well-Known Member

    From memory I think the color is like a cream color but it's easy to tell as it's a resistance wire with rough coating material around the wire cable. Once I ran my new wire i just left the old one there just incase you want to go back to old school points . Then I neatly concealed and re -wraped the wiring lume .
     
    Cutlass likes this.
  15. Cutlass

    Cutlass Platinum Level Contributor

    Thanks, I guess I found the wire. I confirmed by measuring the resistance with about 2 Ohms in between the connector @ the firewall and the connector which goes onto the positive of the coil.:
    IMG_0310.JPG
    What confuses me is, that it looks like there is a pink wire crimped in the same terminal. Will hopefully find out tomorrow when I have some more time.
     
  16. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    The resistance wire is of calibrated length, it doesn't go all the way to the coil. It is joined by the wire from the solenoid "R" terminal and then the pink wire to the coil. That is what bypasses the resistance wire when you crank to start.

    ResistanceWire.jpg

    Not really clear in the wiring diagram.
     
  17. 71 GS

    71 GS Well-Known Member

    I just located the braided resistance wire like in your picture & removed the connection pin on the end of it & re-connected it to a new piece of 12v wire can't remember the ohms type , then pushed it back through the big black connection box like in your picture & screwed it back on ,than ran the new wire to my new electronic distributor . After mucking around a bit at setting the distributor where I wanted it & seating TDC I was good to go
     
  18. Les Modrow

    Les Modrow Gold Level Contributor

    Larry, I have a 66 Skylark and I put a Petronix kit with there coil and it says to remove the resistor wire (brown with white stripe) and I think it starts at the ignition switch (acc. terminal) but I don't see a brown with a white stripe coming out of the engine side of the firewall. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you, Les
     
  19. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"



    While I was looking at the 1966 Chassis Manual, I came upon this paragraph,
    1966ResistanceWire.JPG

    So it appears that the resistance wire is inside the car (instrument panel harness) as opposed to the later cars where it is a part of the engine harness.
    1966InstrumentPanelWiringR.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2020
  20. Les Modrow

    Les Modrow Gold Level Contributor

    Larry, I have a 66Skylark with a Pertonix Ignitor and a Pertronix 40,000 volt coil. I am trying to remove the resistor wire. I found one end at the ignition switch but can't find the other end. It does not come through the bulkhead at the firewall. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you for your time, Les
     

Share This Page