Hey there. I've never installed a water temperature gauge before... just have a few questions. I have a 455 w/Edlebrock Performer intake. #1, Is the temperature sending unit on the back of my intake? Below is a photo, I'm guessing that is it. #2. I was thinking about getting the AutoMeter ATM-5832 but it doesn't come with a sending unit or anything else. Which is the correct sending unit for my application? #3. any other useful tips? Thanks!! :Comp: :grin:
Looks like there is an electrical gauge sending unit in that back hole in the intake. Looks like nothing is connected to it. You can use that hole or one of the front ones, doesn't matter. The gauge you linked is a mechanical gauge, and a good one. Mechanical gauges don't have senders per se, they measure directly. In the case of a temperature gauge, the part that screws into the manifold and the line to the gauge are permanently attached (they can't be taken apart) They are filled with an ether type gas that reacts to temperature and moves the gauge needle. In order to install this gauge, you need to drill a 7/8" hole in your firewall, to pass the line and manifold sender unit through (remember you can't take it apart) Other than that, easy to install.
Cool, thanks Larry. It all makes sense now! Can I assume that the part that comes with the gauge that screws into the manifold is the same size as the hole in the manifold? It seems that it would be a standard size but I just want to be sure before I buy anything! Thanks!!
It will come with a few reducers in order for you to select the appropiate one.You could consider a similar gauge with electrical function if you don't want to tear unto the firewall and route the wire through an existing or new but smaller hole.
Like Hector said, the gauge should come with brass fitting reducers. I don't remember having any problems installing mine on the Performer.
I prefer electrical gauges. There are many now that offer full sweep like a mechanical gauge. They are easier to install and you have many more mounting options. If you want to put the gauge on the A pillar it would be a royal pain to run mechanical lines. Think about that 7/8" hole in your firewall. Do you have some way of sealing over the hole after you've installed the gauge? With electric gauges you can change styles or upgrade to a more expensive gauge while re-using the wiring you've already installed. With a mechanical gauge the gauge, plumbing and sender all have to be swapped if something breaks. Just a few things to consider. John
Sorry.. but I have to go off on a little bit of a tangent since the gauge questions have been answered..... When I use an aluminum intake on a 455, I always put the gauge in the hole by the thermostat and run the heater hose into the back of the intake (where Ethan shows his sender) I never really had a good reason for doing it that way... it just seems that it should function better that way. Penny for your thoughts? Good, bad, indifferent? :beer
Thanks for the info. I'm probably going to get the Autometer 5837. It's not full-sweep but it is electric. And it will match my other Autometer Phantom gauges. Doesn't seem Autometer makes a 2 5/8" Phantom water temp gauge that is full-sweep... Oh well but at least I will have temp gauge!! :TU:
I will add to what rick said. When I ran the edelbrock I tried every combo possible with my mechanical autometer gauge and my factory sender gauge. The port in the back is not the best for temp reading as it showed much lower temp than the front of the intake. The most acurate reading is the port at the thermostat. When I tried the factory gauge at the back it was also low. The best is to have the aftermarket right at the thermostat the factory with an extender wire on the drivers side front although the sender may bottom out on the edelbrock but works on the factory intake. And have your heater hose come out the rear port.
Is it true that even nowadays, mechanical gauges are more accurate than electrical ones? What difference does the full sweep make?
Look at this side by side picture of an Autometer Electrical and Mechanical Temperature gauge. Notice the electrical gauge with it's 90* sweep. Each line represents 25* between 100 and 150*, 15* between 150 and 210*, and 20* between 210 and 250*. Now look at the mechanical gauge with it's full 270* sweep. A line every 5*. There is no difference in the accuracy of the two gauges, but if the pointer was between lines on either gauge, which one could you read more accurately at a glance?
To read you gauges at a glance, I rotate them so all the pointers are pointing straight up whn everything is operating normally. That way, you dont have to actually read the gauge. You can take a quick glance and see the thumbs up from all the gauges.
I've always mounted the sending unit in the front of the intake. Ive always thought that it would be more accurate closer to the t-stat. Although Ive never tested that theory.
Just wanted to say thanks for the info. Installed the gauge last night and everything went smoothly. Got the lights hooked up and everything. Went for a test drive (AKA tire-shredding session) and once warmed up the engine hums along at about 180 degrees. Nice! :TU:
