Idler arm problem

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by RJBT, Nov 20, 2016.

  1. RJBT

    RJBT Well-Known Member

    I have a (probably) very basic question.
    I am restoring my 1960 Buick Electra and have dismantled all the steering parts.
    Rebuilt the steering pump and box... And now I am stuck on the idler arm which I dismantled a year ago and cannot figure out how to make work !!!
    I lost the pictures I took of it so I am stuck.
    I assume it would be simple but I cannot understand how you have the idler freely rotate !!!

    Here are the pics of the parts and assembled. Assembled the arm does not move since it is screwed in all the way.
    What am I missing ?

    Help :confused:

    Roland 20161120_143438.jpg 20161120_143617.jpg
     
  2. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I think the problem is the idler arm parts do screw together but the moveable arm is the only one screwed all the way down on the hex-headed piece. The hex-headed piece then threads more onto the fixed/bolted down portion but at least one turn less than fully tight due to the fact it is required to be able to move at least 90 in either direction. Make sure it is snug as the idler arm being sloppy loose is what causes a terrible driving experience.
     
  3. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    I am sure someone here actually knows for sure how this works but the problem intrigued me. Always interesting to see how parts evolved over the years. Found a picture of on assembled that gives some clues. It looks like you need a grease boot for it still. Seems the order of assembly so far is correct. The adjustment is not. The only way this thing can work is for the arm to be in the middle of the the threads and have equal clearance top and bottom. Basically like a loose nut on a bolt. If there is no clearance then have no idea how it would work.

    The part with the grease fitting seems real interesting. It looks like grease is pushed up past the threads, and then comes back down to the outer threads. I would not have thought this possible. Would like to see some close ups pictures of that part just to see how it works.
     

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  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Something is very wrong there. It has to rotate. I looked on Ebay, and found this,

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Replace...ash=item543bf89379:g:L8wAAOSwx2dYEuN1&vxp=mtr

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Replace...ash=item5b2e39af31:g:35kAAOSwcLxYIQ1K&vxp=mtr

    Maybe the pictures will help. The arm itself looks right. The part that bolts to the frame does not. Maybe you are missing parts? It has to rotate. Hard to see how it can like that though.

    I think Adam Martin has a 60 Electra, or is it a 61? He is Smartin here on V8. Maybe he can help.
     
  5. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Did some more reading on this. If you have a chassis manual there is an adjustment spec for this. Must be someone out there with this spec. Some say this part was supposed to be greased every 1000 miles!
     
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

  7. flynbuick

    flynbuick Guest

    Here is a pic of a 61-64 set up . I do not have the 60 and it could be different.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    I'll take a look when I get home. I believe I have an NOS arm sitting on the shelf
     
  9. SteeveeDee

    SteeveeDee Orange Acres

    The control arm shafts on my Chevy truck are threaded like that, with metal to metal contact (except they get greased). They do not have resilient bushings like a car. There is also a one-time adjustment requirement on the lowers for caster (to get it close) at assembly time. I wouldn't be surprised if it should be lubed every 1000 miles. I've never seen that with an idler arm on any vehicle, so I learned something today.
     
  10. RJBT

    RJBT Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the responses. But I have not found a solution yet.
    I remember dismantling it and was surprised by the few number of parts.
    I have them all (including the thick rubber part (looks like a square oring)) which is not in the picture.
    When i put it back together it has some play if I don't screw the cap all the way in. But no play once screwed all the way in, but of course it does not rotate anymore. I gave the bracket side to a blaster/epoxy coater. I noticed he blasted the threads. I wonder if that brought some play.
    I thought there would be more parts (like a heavy spring inside or a bearing or something).
    My problem is that it worked fine before dismantling. I remember it was very tight (or full of rust/hard grease) and having to set it in a vice to get the whole thing apart.

    So if I understand, to make it work I should back the nut/cap a few turns and fill it with grease and it should be able to turn but not have play in it ? (see pic)

    Would anyone have a functional one they wish to part with ?

    Thanks !
    Idler.jpg
     
  11. RJBT

    RJBT Well-Known Member

    Thanks SMARTIN ! Please let me know how it is assembled. If you can take a picture that would be great.
    Is it for a 1960 ?
     
  12. RJBT

    RJBT Well-Known Member

    Anyone have a spare idler (1960 in good shape) they wish to part with ?
    I don't need the arm, just the idler piece.
    Thanks
    Roland
     
  13. RJBT

    RJBT Well-Known Member

    Just a head's up.
    I dropped the idler parts at a plating shop I work with and asked them to coat it thick so there is no more "play" in the idler. I will let you know how that works out. He said he will nickel plate it.
     
  14. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    This is all I could find in the chassis manual this evening. The idler I have is a later style, not like the one you have.[​IMG]
     
  15. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Here is a bit more...
    [​IMG]
     
  16. RJBT

    RJBT Well-Known Member

    Interesting. Thanks...
    I finally got my idler parts "nickel" plated to add some meat to the threads. Here it is. It works great with no play. Just a little rough to turn as I had to grind some nickel off (too much deposited) by screwing the idler in and out in a vice.
    My grease nipple was damaged (it leaks out) by the last PO. I took it off. Is it 1/8 NPT or 1/8 BSF or something else ?

    20161124_132653.jpg 20161124_132658.jpg
     

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