I don't have a pic of the torque sequence but the specs are as follows. The heads should be torqued to 75 ft lbs. in 3 stages starting from the middle of the head and cris-crossing your way back and forth to the out side edges. The intake bolts on a iron intake should be 55 ft lbs. and on an alluminum intake 45 ft lbs. again working from the center in a crossing pattern to the outter edges.
not to go against what Gerry said but, if your bolts are in good condition and the threads look fine, all you need to do is clean all the holes in the block and heads with a tap to get all the dirt and crud out of the threads and oil your bolts when you install them. You do not need new head bolts. Now if you have a TA intake than you need to buy the bolt set that they have for it. The origional bolts can cause the intake to crack at the bolt holes from the head of the bolt not being large enough to spred the load out. This did happen to me. Good luck
I really don't know about the S/S bolts. Do they have a flanged head or do they use a washer? If they use a washer they may put to much stress on the top of the bolt hole. When you torque the bolt down the washer will tend to buckle into the hole and creat a crack in the intake. If the bolt has a flange built into it you will be just fine. The flange doesn't buckle and gives better clamping force directly down on the intake instead of pushing the opening of the hole out. Also if you bought the bolt kit from TA I'm sure you will be fine.
Though it only has head bolt information its still a handy dandy book. Got it free at a machine shop. Think Felpro gives them away.
