I need advice in Picking a 455.

Hope this helps others in my boat, present and future.

The transplant car weighs 3200. So I’m taking account this will benefit my goals. My goals to help understand me more is to have a Street Machine. Something I can go on long trips in, take to amateur local drag nights for fun, be responsive and take off off the line like no other. I want to run Pump gas too, stock headers and stock head for cost.

I recently read on v8buick an old post on Core shifting and the importance of sonic checking. Very informative and that unpeeled yet another “onion layer” of the vast knowledge that I need to know. So being on a budget I am trying hard not to buy a junk block. My bud tells me a good core in my area ( California) go for 400, running 1000/1500. Buying one from a builder would be ideal but it'$ not attainable at this time and takes some fun out of it, for me at least. Im at the buy a core and do a mild build or get a running mill phase, at the end of the day they will amount to the same money, someone correct me if I’m wrong. Ive read before I posted (1st time acutally, sorry guys) that the 75/76 blue blocks are good candidates for the rebuild route. Also Ive read that mating the blue blocks with the earlier year 455 piston/ head combo is also a good route. So is it safe to say thats what i should ONLY be hunting for a blue block for the rebuild route? What would be a good year for a running mill? And how do I sift through the guys with “running” engine, what more than a compression test can I do? What will core shift sound like or react in a running engine? How about those guys with papework on an engine for the shop but is not completely built or missing a carb and can’t run it for me? I ask because these are my circumstances. And how do I know Homie G didn’t put it together half assed and now its gonna get dumped on me? All question I ask myself because I cost more not to know the answers, Ive been burnt and I’ve burnt myself.

I like the junkyard and always have. I can get the the price down to 200 and some change for a complete engine and inspect it more than a craigslist seller. Another question I have is what are the things to look at when eyeballing and measuring core shift with a measuring tool and what measuring tool? Are there those tell tale signs?

On a side note I want to add that I from time to time entertain the idea of adding a power adder such as nitrous or turbo but would need to drive the 455 as is on my set up to even consider considering.

Thanks for old posts form 300sbb-Overkill, Gary Farmer, Larry, Jim Weise and much more who have helped me unknowingly.

 

years I have at my disposal in my area are 70,71,72.

 

I'd get the 71 or 72, the oil pickup feed is larger , not that you can't drill it out on the 70 but it's one less thing to do

 

Thanks I didn't know that.

 

The 70/71 heads are the preferred cores to work with also, 72-74's are OK but use the ugly intake if you stay with Iron. You may get the CA heads which will have the AIR ports that would need to be plugged

Best budget approach is 70 pistons in 71+ block with 70/71 heads or the 430 heads if you feel like taking a gamble on them not already being cracked or cracking

 

Thanks again, so any year heads I get I must take along the intake of that year?

 

67-71 intakes interchange
72-76 intakes interchange

Without getting into blocking crossovers and what not

 

X2 every thing above. Be aware of water passage changes in 1972 and above heads-they won't work with 70/71 blocks. Learned the hard way, but hey, old friends still like to bring up "the water pressure gauge".

 

Pretty light car, pump gas, and cruiser, leads me to suggest opening the search to 400 and 430 engines. More cubes more power but you aren't moving 4-5k lbs. Plus these aren't in such demand and you did mention budget too so these might be had cheaper . With the 430 you might be able to get the "good" tall port heads and they might not be cracked yet. Just a thought. And with the ability to get pistons easier than in the past you might think on the offset ground crank and BBC rods to go the 470" route with the smaller bore to get back some of the cubes lost by starting with the smaller engine.

Just a thought to accommodate the budget angle of your goal.

 

The 430 was in the GS's so I can't never count them out. My buddy also first told me to go with the 430 because it would be a better option fit wise to drop in. But I dont get that if they are the same dimensions. I did read the 430 has a stronger block. I lean towards the 455 because the parts are more available and cheaper BUT AM I WRONG. Plus I don't want think of the what if. What if I went with the 455?. I wonder how the 430 acts with pump gas too. Thanks Guys

 

You can build either engine for around the same price. The only big difference is going to be pushrods, pistons, rockers and a little more machine work in a 430. also if you will use 455 pushrods in a 430 there will be oil holes to plug. You can do a nice mild build with just some inexpensive (for a Buick) Speed pro pistons and a cam from TA that will except your mostly stock/mild build.
I always check Craigslist for engines and I have found and bought 2. One for $100 with everything on it and another for $150 with everything including transmission. The deals are out there.

 

Thank you John. Can any one chime in on my coreshift questions and tips on not buying a junk core?

 

Look for even area around the lifter bores, that's a good indication, I've had some that were so out of whack the lower part of the lifter bore would missing where it was so off center when they punched the hole

 

am i looking for an even surface where i can take a ruller and sit on top of a row of bores to see if they are all even? or am i looking for a perfectlly rounded bore (hole)? and comparing bore to bore on the size and shape of the hole?
thanks Hugger

 

I wouldn't sweat the core shift on a stock/mild BBB. You may even be able to get 'reject' blocks/core candidates cheaper this way. (my 2c)
Even the weakest BBB you could muster would still move a 3200 lb. car with ease, depending on your definition of fun.
Lots of great advice from lots of great people. I just wanted to toss that tidbit in there and step back out.

 

It will visible if lifter bores are outa whack , I usually stick my finger in the valley and feel the bottom of the bores to see how much material is there, or obviously loom thru bottom if possible. Same with the cyl bores I've seen some that were all whomppijawwed

 

Thanks for everyone's patience, time and posts. Thanks the more info I have makes me at ease. I can move foward now hunting a good candidate down. Happy Sunday.

 

And thanks for a new word I can ad to my vocab

 

When one goes to check out an engine that's not running. What will turn you off and walk away fast from a quick visual Inspection?