So..... I am leaving for work this morning and notice coolant under the Wildcat. I was about 10 feet away, and also notice this thing under the car that resembles a wheel cylinder boot. I figured it had gotten lost somewhere during a previous brake job and had blown under the car. I had not made the connection yet of circular object+coolant=no good. I got home this evening, and crawled under the car to find the leak. Not finding any broken hoses, I started to look harder, and I see this hole staring at me. :shock: I then figure out a freeze plug has popped. The car lives outside, and last night was the first time the temperature went below freezing. I thought the car had enough antifreeze in it, but I had not tested the ratio with my tester since a flush/fill 2 weeks ago. Anyway, the freeze plug obviously did it's job (thank goodness no cracked block), but now, how do I get a new sucker in there? I assume it is like driving a seal in, but will this be possible with the motor still bolted down? Specifically, I am working on a Nailhead, but since every motor I know of has freeze plugs, I post this topic to the bench. Also, is the engine OK to sit now sans freeze plug? Other than insects getting in, am I doing any damage in the 3+ weeks it will probably take me to put a new one in? Looks like I will be taking an exhaust manifold off to do this. Any advice is appreciated.
Howdy, You know you can't run the enginer till you replace the plug Right? Putting the new freeze plug just goes in like a wheel seal make it flush with the water jacket hole and fill. Some things to try like using a long extension with a socket that fits in the cancave side of the plug and bang it into place also see if you can get between the exhaust or through the chassis/ wheel well kind of like doing a tune on newer cars. Best to ya.
Leaving the plug out won't hurt anything, but if the temp is going low and your antifreeze mix wasn't good to begin with, you may pop another plug or crack the block. Pour some straight antifreeze into the engine just to get a better mix in the block to prevent damage. As far as the plug, there is a special tool made for the installation, given the location it should work perfectly for you. Inspect the area with a mirror, if the block is pitted around the area where the plug goes in you will have problems again. Your options at that point would be to either pull the engine and get the hole machined for a larger plug, or to use one of the rubber ones that have a nut on them which expand the plug to snug it into the hole. Good luck with your repair, I hope it goes smoothly.
Be glad that happened, cause thats what a freeze plug is supposed to do. Saved your engine. If the angle is to tough to pound one in, they make a bolt in compression fit rubber freeze plug. They work.
If I am able to go back to a non-rubber freeze plug, is brass or steel better? This will probably fit under the item of opinion, but originals were steel, and everyone nowadays sells brass. Any reason for this?
I would drain the radiator and the block. Your block drains are just below the center plugs on both sides of the block, you may have to poke the dirt out with a coat hanger in order to get them started. Just adding anti freeze won't circulate it all around. Why risk cracking the block again (it may have already in a spot you can't see). Those plugs aren't really designed to pop out just to prevent a cracked block, they were necessary in the casting process of your block. They just happen to pop out when the coolant freezes. Someone during history nicknamed them "freeze" plugs, they are actually "soft" plugs b/c they are soft enough to contract slightly when you push them in to seal tightly. You can't run the motor for more than a minute or so without coolant, just long enough to move it if you have to. As for the "freeze" plugs, judging by your photo they appear to be original.......I'd lift up the motor and replace all 6 of them......steel is OK, it's what the factory used. if you're just going to replace just the one, I'd opt for the rubber style temporarily until you can do the job right and replace all of them. :bglasses:
Freeze plugs do not protect the block from damage if your A/F mix is not strong enough. When the block is cast, those holes are how they get the sand out. Another name for them is core plugs. If the plug popped out on you, it's because it was ready to go. Take a good look at the other ones. I'm sure your mix was strong enough, otherwise it might have cracked the block.
I agree, they really are "core" plugs. I'd stick a rubber one in there for now, so you can enjoy the car until the weather warms up.
What is everyone's opinion on leaving a "temporary" rubber freeze plug in place permanently and not replacing it with a regular one? o No:
The angle makes it almost impossible to pound in a new freeze plug without removing the motor.I had a similar problem in a 455 several years ago on a plug that developed a rust pinhole and struggled trying to beat a new one in,but could'nt get a perpendicular hit on it,no matter if using an entension or even tried a swivel socket.Finally I made a tool,there are threaded bolt holes on the side of the block,I took a piece of bar stock and drilled 2 hole to match a couple of the block bolt holes,then drilled and threaded another hole opposite where the freeze plug is to go.Next place the freeze plug in the block hole,bolt on the bar stock and insert a bolt into the threaded hole in the bar stock and tighten untill the plug is just below the surface of the block,viola.it works. Or,put in the rubber expandable type untill you can pull the motor. gary
Sorry for the bad quality, wrong A/C adapter for scanner, too much voltage causes those lines. Out of my Haynes book
Here is the expanding rubber plug I put in. Worked fine except each morning there would be some drips under the car. Took me three days of tightening and then letting it sit to get it leak free. I did run the car after tightening it to expand it, and then I guess sitting overnight and it freezing the plug contracted enough to let some coolant out. Like I said, works fine now, but I had to re-tighten a few times.
My temporary rubber freeze plug blew out at an old fashioned gas station here in town (one of the ones with attendants and mechanics sitting around). Was having a hard time starting the car for some reason. When it did start, after squirting in some starter fluid, it reved up really high, saw the upper hose go flat, and heard this terrible noise like a shotgun blast. The temp plug blew out, hit the headers and made a complete fool out of me in front of all the mechanics. :rant: So, put another in and it blew out going down the highway in a construction zone that has walls up on each side. GREAT!!! So that's why I ask if anyone has had a problem with the rubber ones because I don't feel like pulling the engine right now. My luck has not been good with them! :Smarty:
What caused the first one to blow out again? I put several into a 9.88ET Rustang drag car, which revved to 6500, and they never popped out. I wonder if there is some other problem going on here. o No: Frank
I tried to start the car and it wouldn't start. Had a problem with the carb. at the time, so we shot a little starter in it. When it did start, it revved up really high so I shut it down quick. As I was shuting it down, I saw the radiator hose go flat as I heard the plug blow out. I think it may have gotten a little dry since it had been in there for a while. Plus I hadn't checked on it since it wasn't leaking. The second time I think it may not have been seated correctly and should have been tightened after it had been driven a few times. Haven't really driven it since putting in the 3rd temp. plug. The hole seems okay and can't figure out any reason why it would be popping out except for it not being in there tight enough. I feel sorry for whoever was behind me in rush hour traffic when it popped the second time!!! ou:
popping freeze plugs You might run a compression test on that engine to see if it has a leak of combustion gas into the cooling system and thereby causing the freeze plug to pop out due to pressure.
