Here's a picture of the master mounted. I Had my brother help me out by holding the mastercylinder/bracket assembly against the firewall, as I nudged it around unitl it was dead square. We marked it, then drilled the holes through the firewall and mounted it. Notice how the MC comes out at almoust the exact angle of the steering column. I did have to switch to a remote resevior master cylinder. The resevior needs a peice of 1/4" brake line bent up and around the booster, to a simple resevior that I pirated off my S-10 blazer.
Here is a shot of the pedal hooked to the master. The heim joint worked very good. Notice how the Clutch pedal is at the same height of the brake pedal. The cluth pedal has a much shorter throw than the stock Z-bar setup. Which equals quicker, easier shifts.
Looking Good!!! :TU: :TU: :TU: Got my clutch and bellhousing in, and trying to find someone who can make the bracket. Did you have to brace up your clutch pedal??? And when you did your tall spindle conversion, what spindles and outer tie rod did you use??? Michael
I haven't been able to step on the clutch yet. I have not hooked the lines up yet. I have the tranny in place, with the lines hanging off the throw-out bearing. I bought the generic lines, which are ridicously long themselves, so I'll need too cut and splice them. In the one picture you can see the braided stainless hose. As far as the tall spindles, The spindles are from a 71 Z/28. Thats as far as I have gotten. I still need to buy the upper arms and balljoints. AS far As I know,stock f or B-body tie rods work.
Ok so like this hasn't been updated with where you are at and I am curious as to what progress (with pictures) has been made. Don't leave us hanging here! :shock:
Seeing how a Hydraulic clutch setup could be used on any A body regardless of engine, I am suprised no one has come up with and marketed a ready to go kit. Repo'ed Chevelle pedal assemblies are already being made. I know they don't work well with a factory Buick linkage, but for a hydro clutch that wouldn't matter. How hard would it be to either modify those, or have someone make the pedals with the needed reinforcement and proper holes. Only thing needed next would be the firewall mount. Everything else is already available. I would think whoever comes out with this kit would do a fair amount of business seeing how there seems to be a boom in 4/5 speed conversions in not only Buicks, but all of the GM A bodys. (There are ALOT of Chevelles out there) BTW companies have been selling kits like this for years for early Mustangs as well as Jeeps. If you build it they will come. :grin: I'd be all over going with a hydro setup if there was a kit ready to go. :beer
I'm waiting on some Stainless steel line to make the resivior and stuff. Later this week I'll have an update.
Actually AI was gonna wait and see how JOE's transformation goes and if it works well, then see what he would charge to send me the custom parts :grin:
i gotta ask this question, my buick is being transfered to a 4-speed super t-10 borg warner, what is the advantage to puting this master cylinder on my clutch vrs. the original way it hooks up?????
AAAhhhhhh.... My car is an original 4-speed car, but the previous owner installed the th-400. I'm doing it this way cause the Z-bar wont clear the KB headers... I would assume that there would be less pedal effort with hydrulic M/C... I'm using a Centerforce Dual friction clutch, howe bearing and wilwood MC. It is a real B!#CH getting every thing in the bellhousing thou... And finding the misc parts...:af: :af: Michael
hey guys, I am a newbie to this forum, more of a lurker and have been watching this thread, but I am quickly approaching time to buy parts and was wondering if anyone could give part numbers for the throwout bearing and master cylinder you are using... Thanks...
I have some good updates, however my real computer is down so I have cannot load any pictures. everything is hooked up, but I still need to bleed it out. I wish I could load everything.
This is some very interesting stuff,where did you get the master and brackets and stuff?let me know as i may want to switch to the hydraulic set up myself. Thanks
You guys might want to check out firebird/camaro hydraulic clutch setups. The have a hydraulic master and slave. You can buy one brand new from the dealership with stainless steel braided hose. They are very nice pieces. The master is also already slanted so you do not have to make that angle bracket to make it work. It also allows for the pushrod to not go straight into the master cylinder, so the pushrod relation is not as critical. Check out the picture posted. These pictures were pirated from thesewebsites, check it out. http://garage-scene.home.att.net/t5_install.htm, http://members.tripod.com/motohead10/index.htm There are other links on the first website to others that list different ways to install the tremec with hydraulic or manual setups. Worth a look. Scottie
I just remembered, you need the special transmission bellhousing to make this hydraulic slave work. The stock camaro small block bellhousing has the bracket the slave bolts to. Would have to fabricate a bracket to make the slave work with the Buick bellhousing. I posted a picture of this bellhousing above. Hope this helps
it works I finally bled out the system and it works!!! :3gears: I have no leaks or anything!!!! My computer is still messed up, but I'll try something. Anyway it was a real PITA to bleed out but it is all worth it. I have about 200 invested, and I think it was money well spent. I'll try to post a few pictures tomorow...
Here is my materials list so far: Master cylinder PN WIL-260-6089 $44.95 Throw out bearing- HRE-82840 $147.39 AN hose kit w/bleeder HRE-8289 $39.99 5/16 Heim joint ------ $3.99 5/16 Threaded Rod $1.99 3/8 flare to #4 AN adaptor $9.95 #4 AN fitting $8.95 Adaptor bracket $25.00 Grand total- $282.21 I only finished bleeding it out Last night around 11:45. I can already tell it was worth it. The pedal is very smooth, with no binding whatsoever. I greased the hell out of the pedal linkage so there is no squeaks. The pedal is still hard to push, but I went with the dual Friction clutch from cenerforce, I wouldn't expect it to be easy. I can't get over how short teh pedal travel is. I just drove a friends 4 spd 71 camaro SS with a mechanical linkage and a dual friction clucth. Pedal effort is about the same but it seemed like the pedal needed to be pushed 3 feet for the clutch to disengage. My knee was pretty much hitting the steering wheel, then it would be fully extended at the bottom. With this setup the pedal is only pushed about 5 inchs. I Love it... :3gears: :3gears: :3gears: Here would be the advantages of this setup: -shorter pedal throw -no wear parts -no mantiance/ adjustments neccesay -no header clearance issues -easier to find parts. -clean look -no "swap meet only" parts needed -works with any bellhousing and tranny -fewer componets in the system= SIMPLE Disadvantages: -harder to setup -Holes need to be drilled in firewall. Not a big deal to me, but if I had a 70 GSX stage one 4 speed, I'd rather not poke holes in it! o No: -Fab time I'd suggest this to anyone, and I'd be willing to mass produce the brackets and assemble everything needed in a kit of sorts. Give me some feed back here- I'll try like hell to post few pictures tonight. My computer is a peice of crap so no guarantees... -
