Great site, loads of good info...I've read a bunch of the posts already...Lots of great cars preserved, gotta love that... I do have 2 questions for you experts...I have a 1970 Riv, picture attached (I think)...First thing is the horn, I hot wired the horns to test and they sounded, when I press on the steering cover nothing...I popped off the cover and didn't see much there, wondering if i may be missing a few pieces...Is the horn on this Riv just a simple push to ground mechanism...I don't see any contacts under the cover and there's no ground wire's attached to the cover when I remove it from the wheel...Kinda vague discription, but I wanted to throw it out there... Second question, about a week ago as I was backing out of the driveway and it felt as if the car was dragging (like a brake was hanging), I pulled her back in and shut her down until the weekend where I preceeded to check the fornt and rear brakes...I replaced the front brakes, had the drums turned (4 wheel drum on this baby) rebuilt the Cylinders, repacked the bearing and cleaned it all up real good...Pulled off the back and all looked good, bleed the system and off we go, still felt a slight drag, but not as bad (or so I thought, I get kinda excited when I have her on the road)...Well after a few days of driving the dragging (kinda like holding back, although not an engine issue or tranny issue) seemed worse, like if I am at a dead stop and let off the brake it barely moves forward (course it has no choice but to move forward when I smack down on the peddle) but it's definitely dragging, any thoughts, I need to bleed the system better, if the brakes aren't hung up (what's a good way to know that) could it be the wheel bearings, the rear-end, tires ??? Thanks a million for reading my long winded message (you may have to get use to it), look forward to all the great feedback...Tony
RE: Brake... Funny you mentioned that Marvin, While I was under the the car lookin' around I noticed that the emergency brake cable had snapped, but the brake didn't seem to be dragging, from what I could tell...Are you saying a broken cable could be letting the back brake drag...I felt around the hub caps after a quick drive and didn't feel any excessive heat, but then again it probally wouldn't heat up at the cap...I'll put a new cable on it this weekend and see how it goes...Thanks partner...Hope this reply comes out in the right thread...
We had a post earlier on mystery brake drag causes. His was cures by replacing the wheel cylinders. Another person said they had found that a rubber brake hose dilamented internally and his was cured by replacing the brake hose. Incidently there is a 70 Riv near me in the paper for sale for $4500. Just thought I would post that in case someone is looking for that year and model. Yours looks nice.
Hi Tony... Dig my site, it'll probably help you out a bit... http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jholthenrichs As for your horn... In the 69 the wheel has a big pad in the center. I'm assuming yours has that too. There should be 2 wires attached to the back of the pad.
Look to be just ground wires attached to the metal backing of the pad. I'm sure you could screw or solder some there. Then they just hold to the column via friction. I'm sure you could use something that would poke in there and stay.
Thanks... Thanks Jim, although the rear brakes looked OK, I'll rebuild the cylinders anyway, after all the car is 33 years old, and I'll check the soft lines on the brakes their fairly inexpensive and new parts never hurt... Thanks for the excellent photos Yardley, I have seen your site and it's very interesting, so is your car...That's how I got to this site, via your site...I don't have those wires on the back of my pad, but I'll dig into it a little deeper now that I have an idea of what it should look like.... I've had the car for about three years and been tinkerin' with it here and there, had the engine completely rebuilt (all stock) last year and have been slowly going thru the car ever since...I'm the second owner of this beauty, the last owner was a 80 year old woman, although she let her 16 year old grandson drive it for a bit before I got it, I think the kid and his buddies abused her a bit, but she's got allot of life and plenty of that Buick Torque...
If your steering wheel looks like mine, I'll send you my pad. I'm sure the color is wrong, but you can spray it with vinyl paint to match yours. That stuff really works well. At least you'll figure out if it is the pad or not.
I've had the rubber hoses collapse internally on a few different vehicles!!:blast: The symptom is definitely a dragging wheel. The rubber line should be firm when you squeeze it...if there is a soft section - you've found your problem (most likely). Depending on how old the rubber lines are, might not be a bad idea to change them all - Good peace of mind!!:TU: After driving for several minutes, you should be able to find the dragging wheel(s) - just hold your hand near or on each wheel (be cautious - sometimes they get VERY hot). Might be better to just put the car on jack stands to check it. Spin the wheel manually and see how it's spinning - it shouldn't stop real quick. Then, have someone put the brakes on, let off and then try spinning the wheel again. If that one is dragging, you'll probably spot it real easy!!:TU: Replacing the emergency cables is also a good idea...expecially if they're original. They rust inside eventually and keep the shoes expanded (rubbing on the drums). If you also replace the wheel cylinders - drain all the fluid, since you're in there anyhow -- Start Fresh!!:Smarty: Make sure the brake fluid in the master cylinder is CLEAR, not brownish.
Steering Pad... That is a very temping and generous off Yardley, let me get a good look at mine compared to the photos you sent me and Ill get back with you, I wouldnt want to take something I cant useI was just browsing around on your site again, do you do all your own work, engine and all, I mean I know you probably didnt bore it over .030 yourself, but did you put it all together, either way its a super ride, is it a daily driver or a stress relieverThanks again and Ill let you know about that pad Tony G
Firm is always better than Soft... Thanks for those tips Scott, I'm just your average shade tree mechanic and a little help goes a long way...I think the way you laid it out will be my exact plan of attack, sounds like I outta be back in action for a Saturday night cruise....
Thanks Tony. This build was SUPPOSED to be built by GSThunder and myself, but issues arose that made it imperative that the engine shop put it together. I've done cam swaps, cam bearing replacement, head swaps, distributor changes and the like - light duty stuff. I did the body work and assisted in the spraying of the car. I swapped rears (had one rebuilt). I guess I'm saying that fine tolerance work was left to those more qualified, while I basically did the maintenance stuff. I'll be changing the tailhousing on the trans next week... it is no fun to do because the exhaust has to get dropped from the headers, then the driveshaft has to get pulled, then the trans mount has to come out (which is REALLY no fun!) all while raising the front and rear on jack stands. ack. But I'm real good at detailing. Cleaning comes naturally...
Roger that... Sounds like you know plenty, I'd still like to see a 5000 lb sled go 13.82 in the 1/4, I'd like to get mine there...How far is Holland, PA. from Pittsburgh...I get up that way every now and again...
6 hours or so. I'm just north of Philly. 13.82 isn't where I'm going to stop either. I want low 13's. Or 12's. or 11's...
