I'd like to put a higer amp alternator on my 69 Riv. Mine is the heavy duty one for the Riv with A/C, power seat/windows/antennae. Is there a larger one that will just swap out? How do I switch to an internally regulated alt from the original "regulator on the firewall" alt? What all must be done? AND! Will the brittle wiring on my 33 year old beast handle it? Thanks!
The swap is so simple even I was able to do it I matched up a higher amp, internally regulated alternator from a junkyard, swapped pulleys, and got directions from the web (including the GSCA board). I not sure of part numbers (don't want to say almost any GM). Either the amperage or a code to that effect is stamped on the casing. You can also get alternators with various numbers of connections. The one I used has the battery terminal and a two-wire pig-tail. I wrote the directions down somewhere, so I'll go look for it if someone doesn't post directions first. Off the top of my head, I believe I spliced the exciter wire ("F" marked on alternator case?) to the battery wire. The other wire ("R" on the case?) of the alternator's connector went to the idiot light. If I remember correctly, this wire is the brown one from the firewall regulator that goes inside the passenger compartment. I think you can simply cut the blue and brown wires from the regulator, splice them together, and run the blue wire to the "R" of the alternator. Clip the rest of the wires from the regulator and remove it. Pull the remaining loose wires out of the harness. I have been told there is a slight parasitic draw, but not enough to drain the battery unless it sits for a very long time. Theoretically, the alternator will only put out what the car draws, so the wiring (in theory) should be fine unless you add a lot of high-amp accessories. If you do, you can wire them directly to the battery using higher gauge wires (and fuses). I simply wanted an internal regulator, so am not worried about my wires. However, I slightly modified the wiring: I ran a new, higher gauge wire from battery to alternator, and one from battery to starter. I also added a small fuse block between the battery and everything else for peice of mind. It has a "master" fuse between the alternator and battery, one between battery and starter (got rid of the fusable links), one for the headlights, and one for the passenger compartment.
I used a 78amp alternator for a 83 surburban with AC and power windows. I run some voltage draining equipment on the skylark "electric cooling fan for example" I had the 60 amp "stock" alternator on ther but it could not handle the load. If you need pictures for the swap i will take some as the swap is very easy.
Thanks Gang. OK, so... what plugs in where? I have an externally regulated alt with a 2-wire pigtail and a terminal for the + wire from the battery. With the alt from the Suburban, for instance, what do I connect to where, and what gets removed (not connected)? Where can I get an external fuse block to add to my current system to allow me to plug additional wires into for radio, fuel pump and etc? My Riv has NO extra prongs available in the factory fuse block like all the other GM cars I've had. Don't know why that is. The spots are there for them, but there are no prongs installed for me to hook a wire to.o No: Thanks!
Wiring solutions For items like a radio, I have been able to use the existing factory wiring w/o cutting into it. For example, for a constant 12V, since my clock doesn't work, I just used its harness. A male spade will fit into those harness usually. For switched 12V, I used the power wire for the cig. ligher. On the 225, the wire has a female bullet that plugs into a small rod sticking out the backside of the ligher. I just used a male bullet to connect into the factory wire and spliced new wire to radio and another back to ligher using another female bullet. For ground, my ashtray has a braided strap to dash frame that uses standard spade connector. Using this method, I am able to easily hook up items like my radio that I have, but be able to proudly say that I cut not a single factory wire. Hope that helps.
The web site Phil posted is one I used too. Here is an interesting one that discusses having an internally regulated alternator and stock appearance by modifying the external regulator: http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofall.htm On the left, third link from the top "Alternator Conversion." Then scroll down to the "Fancy Way." For the fuse block, I went to a junk yard and found a small one for about $5. Has only a few spaces for fuses. I think it was off an `87 Toyota Corrola. I had originally went to a yard that only handles newer cars, but they wanted at least $30 for an engine compartment fuse block, and all of those had at least 12 fuses. I didn't need that many. Otherwise, its a matter of taste. The newer ones look much better and allow for a lot of growth. Choose the type of fuse you want, and get one with a good cover. For the existing fuse block, you might be able to get the metal prongs at NAPA or a dealer. In the future I plan on swapping the inside fuse block to something larger and more modern. I think there are after market blocks, but I'll probably just visit the junkyard for something that meets my particular needs.
Guys, the June issue of Car Craft has a story on this. Lot of good tips. They bring up some safety issues I hadn't even thought about. I think it would help if you take a look.
Thanks y'all. Cool Zach - how's finals going? Man I remember it used to be brutal. Any more interviews? I read that article in CC. But if I recall they really don't give you a step by step direction. I'll check out the links! And maybe do a junkyard crawl in a few weeks. My cig lighter is constant power. And with the amp and head unit I've pretty much tapped into all available sources. BUT Zach, my clock is dead too. I'll see what else uses that fuse and use it for my next constant power source.:TU: thanks!
easy as pie the switch to a hi-output 1 wire alternator is sooo simple you wont believe it! email me with specific questions.:bglasses: if you go to over 90 ampres , i would upgrade your battery to alt wire to at least 10 gauge:TU:
