How to Make a STAR WARS AIR CLEANER BASE

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by 1969RIVI, Apr 7, 2018.

  1. 1969RIVI

    1969RIVI Well-Known Member

    I was told the base I'm modifying is from a 67 Riviera, and I'm assuming it's a HD model because if it was a GS base there would be no need to modify it. Someone cut the snorkel off and cut another hole in it before the previous owner bought the car. He replaced it with another one and sold me this one.
     

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  2. Ant Legrand

    Ant Legrand Well-Known Member

    I would be interested in that base on the right if Jacob/DauntlessSB92 doesn't want it. Thanks
     
  3. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    Let me PM Jacob. He might not have seen this. If he steps out, it's yours, Anthony.
     
  4. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    I apologize for not posting back in this thread.

    Jacob PM'd me back Thursday to say he would take it.
     
  5. Ant Legrand

    Ant Legrand Well-Known Member

    If anyone else has a 67 base that matches the dimensions in post #6 of this thread, please let me know. I believe it would be from a 67 or 68 full size car.
     
  6. 1969RIVI

    1969RIVI Well-Known Member

    Here's some updated progress on the base mod. In the last pic with red lines is the outer ring diameter of the "hump" the original base on the right measures 8.5" and the 67HD base is 9.5".I've found an air filter that will fit the mod base it is a K&N filter part# E-1350. The dimensions for that filter are 9.5" I.D. 11.25" O.D. and 2 1/8" high. Now, the catch is the the height inside the star wars lid to the base is 2.75" so some foam tape can be added inside the lid and to the base to make up the difference.
     

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  7. 1969RIVI

    1969RIVI Well-Known Member

    Now to add to this my 72 455engine is in a 69 Riviera which is tight for clearance to begin with. I have a complete original Star Wars set with original base mounted to a 72 Quadrajet carburetor, the hood insulation removed and the SW lid still rubs a bit (pic4). I noticed the original base where it touches the fins on the inside of the lid to the flange that rest on the carb is 7/8"(pic3) where the same area on the mod 67HD base it is 1 1/8". If you have no issues with clearance you can use this base as it is. If you are like me and have clearance issues a portion of the hump to carb ring area will have to be cut out and the ring rewelded to the hump(pic5).
     

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    Last edited: Nov 29, 2018
  8. 1969RIVI

    1969RIVI Well-Known Member

    The Riv engine compartments are tighter than the skylarks so I've Been told. I have OEM mounts in it and I've been exploring different ways on how to get more clearance. So far the easiest cheapest way is modify the base to get it to sit lower. I have an edlebrock performer intake and if I can remember correctly I read somewhere it sets the carb forward a little bit more than the stock intake does but doesn't change the actual height. But by it sitting forward pushes the front of the air cleaner closer to the hood for the Riviera/my case anyways.
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2018
  9. 1969RIVI

    1969RIVI Well-Known Member

    MOD UPDATES:
    So I decided since I have hood clearance issues that I would just say f*** it and go for a full base mod. I picked up some 18 gauge flat stock and and traced out and cut the pieces I needed to replicate the dimensions of the original base. I then decided to cut the carb ring off the 67HD base to use for my new one since it had to be cut out and rewelded anyways. Now I'll be able to use the proper/stock filter just like the original Star Wars. I tack welded the pieces all together. More progress and pics to follow!

    EDIT: the metal dimensions are as follows
    - Upper Ring: 8 3/8" diameter with 1 3/8" - 1 1/2" wide band
    -Lower Ring: 12" diameter with 1 7/8" - 2" wide band
    -Vertical Band: 1 1/4" wide x 26" long (cut to length once bent and tack welded to upper ring)
     

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    Last edited: Dec 3, 2018
  10. 1969RIVI

    1969RIVI Well-Known Member

    A few more pics of the secondaries flap linkage box/pop-out. Next is to spend a few hours filling in all the welds and grinding them smooth!
     

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