Ok so I put an air bar in the right rear spring, and these huge BFG 325/50-15's on the back and I go out to see how it launches................Well it doesn't!!!! UP IN SMOKE!!! :3gears: It does leave the line but not very fast. I'm feathering the clutch and leaving at about 2500 rpm's but as soon as I get into the gas it's all over!!! :3gears: So what's the secret ???
When you figure out the secret let me know. :Brow: I have the same problem, the car spins through 1st and 2nd when hammered either stopped or moving. Feathering the clutch will get me out of the hole, but soon as I open the secondarys it's like driving on ice. :laugh: :3gears:
Is it really all that bad??? I wish my car did that. Losing a race cause the car is so powerful it wont hook, isn't shameful. Just a problem if you race for a living.
Yep, I thought I was doing ok then hit second real early to try and settle it down a bit felt the secondarys open and it was up in smoke just like the old days with the smaller tires. I know there's guy's with automatics out there with way more power than I have launching there cars like crazy..Look at Gessler's car! I'm sure he's faster than me and he's running those skinny poly-glass tires. Buick_350X It's not bad driving around and just playing, you can do cool burn outs and stuff but I've seen the tail lights of every car known to man until I can get it to hook and then it's off to the races. Only problem is really fast cars are going to be long gone by then. I guess I'll have to practice more often :Brow:
I know I'm going to have that problem when everything is finished with my car. I would suggest shifting at the rpm's right when the torque drops off on the powerband. The problem is, is having all the torque right at the low rpm's with the Buick engines. Doesn't Hurst have a shifter specially made for dragracing a 4-speed? I'll be in the experimental stages like you guys are and hopefully with my high horsepower/ lower torque engine, plus the fact my engine is lighter than a BB I'll be able to launch easier without smoking the tires.
I agree with Nicholas. I had the same problem with my GSX until I put a set of drag radials onto a pair of 8 inch rims made by Stockton Wheel. The tires stick like glue. All the little chirps I used to get when I shifted or went around a corner or accelerated over a bump are gone. When I powershift, the car gets up as goes - minus all of the wheel spin I used to get. Brian
when i went from street tires to slicks on my GS455 4 speed i ended up snapping one axle and twisting the other. dont try a 3500 rpm launch with a stock rear and sticky tires uzzled:
Well, I would say weight transfer is important.(BTW, ever notice how Greg's car leaves the line?) Disconnect your front sway bar, put 90/10 shocks up front, and drop your tire pressure. Gessler's car uses the polyglass tires, It's alot easier to modulate the throttle when they start to slip. With street radials, once they start to spin, you have to get out of it completely, then back in. Just remember, tire spin saves parts. Once you do hook all that torque up solidly, expect to break parts at regular intervals.
I'd go wider if I could but it would mean tubs...I have BFG drag radials now and they are 13 inches wide on 10 inch rims. They have plenty of traction once I'm moving but out of the hole I just blow them away. Funny thing is I have an open rear with 3.42's but I'm smoking both tires uzzled: The drivers side smokes for about 10 or 15 feet then stops while the pass side just blows smoke for 50 or 60 feet. I can launch softer but that isn't fast :spank: Maybe this is as good as it's going to be without drastic measures, but if so that sucks. How about launching in second gear? Is that a bad idea?
Ok, I can remove a sway bar no problem. I've heard about 90/10 shocks for years but to tell the truth I don't know what they do. I could guess but I don't know for sure. I have seen Gregs car leave the line and it blows me away how he brings the front end to the top before he leaves.
90/10's act like worn shocks. Easy to extend, but hard to compress. They let the front end rise more, so the car sits back on the rear tires. The sway bar also restricts the front end rising, which is why I suggested disconnecting the end links.(reconnect them for street driving, unless you like unpredictable emergency handling) I have seen very few cars that leave like Gregs car. I'm sure there are other considerations, I just don't know them :laugh: Launching a 4 speed car is harder. Leaving at too low an RPM, it bogs, too high it spins. Alot of experimenting to be done. No-Hop bars would also help you.
As always great info Larry. I'll start with those adjustments and do some track testing. :beer Thanks
No it isn't all bad, it makes for a helluva fun street car, but trying to lay down a good time at the drag strip is pretty much impossible. And losing to another car when you are obviously making more power due to John Force style smoke shows isn't much fun. A loss is a loss. I have been beaten out of the hole in almost every street race I have engaged in, I have managed to catch and pass them pretty quick once 2nd gear grabs, but all it takes is a car thats making power close to mine and I'm toast. :3gears: ou: Maybe a set of drag radials are in order. :grin:
I've read a ton of info on the board on the drag radials and I'm thinking the general idea is the the BFG's are not the best so you may want to try another brand. Mine are as big as you can go without undue modification and we've covered how well they do. ou:
I have also heard that the BFG radials are not the best way to go. How are the MT ET Street radial? They look simmiler to a Nitto, aren't these the ones everyone has been raving about?
