How important is it to have a good .040 squish/quench?

To add to my first post to you.
The 210* is with A/C engaged on a 97* day. Engine runs much cooler with A/C off.
If you have been keeping up with my posts. My entire cooling system has been replaced with new parts and enhanced with TA's High flow water pump.
New radiator.
New high flow 160* thermostat.
New HD Thermostatic fan clutch.
New hoses, and belts.
Evans special coolant.
Changed Ported vacuum to Manifold vacuum.
Rechecking engine timing and advance.
Not sure if there is anything else that can be checked or replaced.

Just so everybody knows, I've never experienced a boil over.
Originally I had the RED light temperature light, it never came on. I believe, if I remember, Buick has the red light set to go off at 223*, I could be wrong.
I changed out my gages to a digital system, and we found out that it is set by the factory 10 degrees higher as a safety factor. When I see it at 210* it's really at 200*.
I'm posting this as an FYI to all members who are tracking my overheating issue.

I want to thank all the members who have helped me with this issue, you know who you are.
High flow thermostat. New to me.
Evans special coolant. Another new to me.
HD Thermostatic fan clutch. Good suggestion.
TA's High Volume water pump. This made a super different. Thank you.
New radiator, good suggestion, but I should have purchased an aluminum model that Larry suggested, I bought the 4 core copper/brass HD radiator before I got his post.
Use Manifold vacuum instead of Ported. Several members recommended this.

Just wanted everyone know how much I appreciate all the help I've been given, it means a great deal to me.
I'am a 74 year old retired machinist that 53 years ago, built 2 super nice and powerful SBC engines. I mostly stuck with factory high performance internal parts and added aftermarket intake manifolds, headers, ignition system, carburator and differential.
To me it was simple to do, sticking with factory high performance parts.

Today, it's a very different ball park. All the new technology has pasted by me, so this is a reason why I ask a lot of questions. I love my Buick, but this beast is very different from my Chevy engines.
FYI: This is my first issue with high water temperature issues.
This problem is all new to me and a surprise I didn't expect to have. VET

 

Do you have the spring in the lower hose? That is needed to prevent the hose from collapsing. Something you can’t see when driving down the road.

 

Brian, as we speak, both upper and lower hoses have been replaced when we replaced the radiator.
I can't tell you what I have now.
I have no clue.
I hope the shop is using the best water hoses they can find.
I have to assume, the shop is using modern day hoses. If that means hoses that use the spring in the lower hose I hope they are using that.
Now that you have clued me in, I will be asking them asap.

Thank you for this info.

 

You can check for presence of the lower hose spring by simply crushing the hose with your hand when at room temp. If the hose pinches closed with hand pressure, no spring present. The spring doesn't come with a new hose, if I remember right (been a long time since I bought one). It's usually just carried over from the hose being replaced.

Devon

 

This ^^^

I think this was my main problem. My lower rad hose didn't have a spring in it. So I put one in. Also found out that my upper rad hose was collapsing when you go from part to full throttle down to idle. I ended up coming up with another spring and put it in the upper.

I haven't noticed the issue since.

I was also chasing an overheat( or running hot) issue. The main issue is with the 66 and 67 Skylarks, there is a size limitation on the rad width. The frame rails are narrow, so the rad is narrower than the 68 and newer Skylarks. I went with a 2 row alum rad, TA water pump and their alum overdrive water pump pulley. Temps are now under control.

BrianTrick is right though...the manufacturers claim that the internal spring in the hoses aren't needed anymore due to new manufacturing processes and materials, but they're wrong. It definitely helped in my case. Especially with the TA pump, it moves way more water than the factory pump.

There is somewhere you can buy just the spring insert separately, but I can't recall who sells it. Not sure if it was OPGI or Year One or somebody like that. It has been mentioned somewhere on this forum in a thread somewhere. I've been meaning to buy a few to have for future use.

Good luck. I think you are on the right track.

 

Just got an email from the shop.
They confirmed, the lower hose does have the spring.
Thanks to everyone for asking. VET

 

I agree, I used to run a 4:56 rear in my 56 Belair. Great on the strip, not so hot on the street.
Had to change to a more conservative differential for street and highway cruising.
There is a huge difference.

 

I forgot to add, you are correct, it did use to be a AHRA race strip. I remembered they had some strange rules and car categories. I saw a GTO that had a Dominator cut in half. That allowed it to run in a lower class and it was fast, in it's class.
There was a guy (1971) his sir name I think was Blevens. He had a 64 Corvette that ran in C/Gas. He was the track record holder at the time. Same class I was put in. After I saw him run, I didn't even try to run against him lol. I would have looked like I put my car in reverse.

Had no chance of beating him. He was a full time Pro. Had a semi truck and trailer in the pits.
The track was excellent and had a load of fun with my Navy buddies. We took a 62 Vette, a 70 Camaro 396 and my 56 Belair. Only issue, we were young and dumb. If one of us had broken a part, we had no way of getting back to the Navy base at Newport RI. Ops,

 

You don't have an overheating problem. You have the perception that you have an overheating problem.
You are looking for confirmation.

Life is too short to think I, or others here, are being petty or condescending.
The answers and information in this thread, belies point of view.

Drive and enjoy your car.

 

Thank you so much.
I really appreciate your positive comments.
I just received an email from the shop and the owner is happy to relay that the situation has improved a lot.
It appears I'm on the way for a driver at last. VET

 

For the majority (99%) of responses I receive from the forum members, they all have been very supportive and informative.
I can't say enough for the appreciation I feel. Regards VET.

 

Thanks for the like Mark.
Just yesterday I ordered a Griffin aluminum radiator.
A great recommendation from Larry the Wiszard.

Another example of Buick guys helping Buick guys.

 

A lot of good guys on here!