If your girdle doesn't have the o-ring provision then use sealer (I use Ultra Black) between the girdle and block pan rails. Then use a gasket (I prefer composition over cork) between the pan and girdle. I like to paint that one with permatex super 300 on both sides (don't use too much or gasket will want to squeeze out of place). Never use silicone based sealers on cork gaskets. Use sealer (Ultra Black) to fill in any gaps in the front and rear aluminum spacers.
Thanks Larry, that puts me on the right track. I have a gasket set but didn't check what the pan gasket is. I wasn't sure if I was supposed to use the gasket or not. I used Hondabond between the girdle and block rails. I was assembling the timing cover and hit a road block with the aluminum spacer. I have composition gaskets for the front of the pan but wasn't sure if I should just use sealer(UltraBlack)
Well after much digging all I have is a cork pan gasket. I've looked at all the parts stores (year, make and model please) and all they have is the Fel Pro cork. I would assume that TA has composition gaskets but is it worth a week and day off work to wait for it.
Thread revival..... Just finished girdle install, getting ready for final assembly. The girdle I have has the o ring provision between the block and the girdle. I bought it used, and I see that the previous installation did not use the o ring. What do people suggest, just use UltraBlack to seal between the block and the griddle, or use the O ring? What gives best seal?
Between the block and girdle I used Hondabond. That's the sealant used to seal motorcycle/ATV engine cases. It's very similar to Ultra Grey but thinner/runnier. I put a little too much on mine and it ran down inside the block. It's thin set so it does ooze out everywhere. Ultra Black/Grey is too thick for between the block and girdle. I did use 3M Black Weatherstrip Adhesive to glue the gasket to the pan then clamped it in position for a day, then did the forward section that dips down the next day and clamped it. I ran a drill bit thru the pan bolt holes to align the gasket holes to the pan holes. I used Ultra Grey for the pan seal at the rear between the girdle spacer and the rear main cap and on the pan side of the spacer. The T/A fabbed pan (gold one) had a huge gap(more than 1/2") but Ultra Grey did fill well. I snugged it down while wet and made a light wipe to clean off the excess. I let it tack up for about 20 min then snugged it a little more, then again about 30 min later. What I ended up with is a very clean seal, with a little bulge in the sealant showing that I had a good even "squish". I've used Ultra Grey before on other pans with good success. I've never tried "Right Stuff" before, but I'm sure that works well for the pan also. I broke my 464 in on the stand and ran it several times more with no leaks. I realized the pan won't fit the crossmember without modification so I replaced the pan with the same process. Still no leaks. I would definitely recommend the caulk tube from Napa. It's still Permatex brand just in a bigger caulk tube container. Much easier to deal with and apply unless you have gorilla fingers!!
One more thing. When I glued the gasket to the pan with the weatherstrip adhesive, I let it sit overnight each time. When dry, I ran a bead of weatherstrip adhesive along the INSIDE edge of the gasket that faces the crank. I found that it gives the cork a little extra protection against wicking up the oil. This is a photo of the pan that I removed after break in and several 30-40 min runs. Notice the gasket is still in good shape. You can see the bead of weatherstrip adhesive on the inside edge.
