How do you remove pinion angle with shims on SSM bars

Discussion in 'Race car chassis tech' started by 67NorCalGS, Jul 7, 2004.

  1. 67NorCalGS

    67NorCalGS Well-Known Member

    If I need to remove pinion angle what do you guys use for shims on your SSM bars?

    Thanks!
     
  2. badbuik

    badbuik Well-Known Member

    I'm pretty sure that you can not take away pinion angle by shimming the SSM Bars. I have them on my '65, you may be able to take away a degree or 2, when you drill the hole that secures the "plate" to the side of the lower control arm mount, or trim the plate, then drill the hole. To make angle changes you need to buy adjustable upper arms, or relocate the hole on the uppers that you have. I have done this, welded plate over the stock hole and then redrilled it to get the angle I wanted. What do you have now???
    Gary G.
     
  3. badbuik

    badbuik Well-Known Member

    One other thing, I still have the directions from my SSM Bars, do ya need a copy? If you have access to a fax machine, I can hook you up.

    Gary G.
     
  4. 67NorCalGS

    67NorCalGS Well-Known Member

    I still have my directions but I'm kind of lost. I still have the same measurements but I noticed my bracket(A) was not against the axle tube. I was able to tap it with a hammer to but it up. It says to tighten bolts at position 3 and 5 only then lower rear end. Well I lowered the car.

    Maybe the rear is supposed to be lowered but not the whole car to load the bracket then you tighten the 3/8 bolt at position 1 before putting it on all four.

    Maybe I should do this first and re-measure. Also it seems like the 3/8 lock washer is kind of small for the hole and half of it got sucked in. I'm going to change over to lock nuts once I get it all dialed in.

    What do you think? it make sense to tighten position 1 while the rear end is hanging otherwise how would you move the pinion once the car is on the ground.
     
  5. badbuik

    badbuik Well-Known Member

    I'll have to look at the directions when I get home. All checks and final tightening should be done with the weight on the suspension, not with the rear hanging down, put car ramps under the rear wheels. That plate doesn't have to touch the axle tube, you can cut that off if needed, drilling the hole from the plate into the side of the lower arm mount is what will lock in the angle. I don't remember any 3/8 hardware, pretty sure mine was all 1/2in stuff. You didn't mention the angle you have now, if its in SSM suggested range, with the weight on the suspension, drill the hole and tighten everything down. I think you could take a floor jack and jack up the pinion some to change that angle, but you need to watch the plate, it may hit the axle tube, you can always grind or cut it for clearance, it doesn't take much to gain a degree if you think you need one, that's why I'd like to know what you have now, at the trans. and the pinion. With my old mopar 8 3/4 rear in my 65, i cut part of the plate off, and moved the upper arms mount hole to get the required angle, the drilled the 1/2 hole and locked it all down. I now have a Ford 9in, about the same as the 8 3/4, angles were good, drilled the hole and tightened it all down. SSMs' like really loose rear shocks, I have junkyard "oil" shocks, they let the rear drop easier which gives the bar leverage.
    Gary G.
     
  6. 67NorCalGS

    67NorCalGS Well-Known Member

    Sorry I have -1.5 at the trans and -3.5 at the pinion. I think I'm going to torque it all down and try it out just like SSM says, 4-6 down. Check out step 10 in the instructions it sounds like you let it hang and torque postion "1" 3/8 bolt before lowering car.

    Thanks:)
     
  7. badbuik

    badbuik Well-Known Member

    OK, I'm looking at step 10, I didn't do this, I cut that part of the plate off. Plus I'm pretty sure that our cars do not have "snubber brackets", so skip that part, and follow the rest of the directions. You might end up cutting, or grinding the plate, like I said, and the directions say, drilling the 1/2in hole locks in the angle. From your measurements I'd just put it all together, if the plate clears, or just touches the axle tube, with weight on the suspension, tighten and drill, and be done. Hope it works out.
    Gary G.
     
  8. 67NorCalGS

    67NorCalGS Well-Known Member

    I'm with ya Gary, too much drama over this pinion angle crap. Car is almost completed and it would be nice to drive it before moving on to greener pastures. It will be a 5 year frame-off in November.

    John
     
  9. 67NorCalGS

    67NorCalGS Well-Known Member

    Shocks and springs

    Hey Gary so you think some lazy shock will work? I can get some new oil filled ones at the auto parts store.

    What about springs, I was going to buy new because the ones I have are uneven. Should I buy stock Moog or heavy duty or cargo?

    Do you use a sway bar and if so, how did you get it to fit with the SSM bars?


    I also have Energy poly bushing all the way around including body and factory upper that we boxed. Up front I have six cylinder springs with lakewood drag shocks.

    Oh yeah I ended up with about -5 total. -2 at the driveline and -3 pinion.

    John
     
  10. badbuik

    badbuik Well-Known Member

    Hey John, what are your "intentions"? I'm going to guess Street/Strip. I would get the oil shocks, if they are stock replacments, or longer, extended. The rear springs, I have one that is a stock replacment from Pep Boys, and the other is a cargo spring for a '69 El Camino, if I remember right. I cut the cargo to the same height as the stock one, so the car is level. I do not run a sway bar, I used to run poly urethane bushings, but now have solid aluminum. Like I mentioned before, the parts you buy will depend on your goal/intentions. For the front suspension
    I used to run the origional 300ci V8 springs and Summit adj. front shocks, set at 90/10, this set-up worked pretty good, and no front sway bar. I also did run an air bag in the Rt. rear spring, at 14psi, the car would 60 ft. in the mid 1.50's, running on a 28 x 10 slick at 13psi. If you have any more questions, I'll try and help out.
    Gary G.
     
  11. 67NorCalGS

    67NorCalGS Well-Known Member

    Hey Gary yeah you got it street/strip, and Saturday night special. 1.50 60 ft is bad to the bone........I have no idea what my combo will do but I'm hoping for mid eleven's. Last night I torqued down the SSM bars and ordered my shocks NOS off Ebay.........cheap! tonight I'm putting my quater glass back in and gas tank.

    You ever make it to Famoso this year for the HHR?
     
  12. badbuik

    badbuik Well-Known Member

    John, haven't been to FAMOSA, what is the HHR? Might be interested. 11 second passes shouldn't be to hard to achieve, my old combo ran 11.20's at 118 mph, not to radical either. Hope everything with your project is going well. I'd appreciated the info. on this HHR thing, I'm willing to travel.
    Gary G.
     
  13. 67NorCalGS

    67NorCalGS Well-Known Member

    http://museum.nhra.com/apcm/templates/reunions.asp?articleid=749&zoneid=49

    Shoot Gary your way down there in SoCal................still your a lot closer to Bakersfield then I am. The CHRR is the biggest spectacle in drag racing, no doubt. The only problem is that it's invite only for us slow cars, unless your a vintage S/SS or factory experimental. Just might be a full field of pre 74 nitro funny cars this year for the first time Plus around 20 Nitro front engine dragsters. The Good Guys had about six for the March Meet. It's huge! It's similar to a Good guys race, the closest to you might be Pamona.

    The Winged Express AA/FA was the featured car last year.

    John
     

Share This Page