Other than some sort of media blaster what is the next best way to prep the underneath of the body and frame. Lots of undercoating under here. Should I clean with a degreaser and re shoot with undercoating?o No: Wondering since I have the rear springs off and figured I should do something with this.... Scott
Some de-greaser and a pressure washer ought to do the trick. Let it dry completely, and hit it with some por15 and a final coat of:TU: paint/undercoat.
I use a putty knife or screwdriver to scrape off the layers of crud. Then I use wire brushes and wire wheels to get the finer stuff. And last I scrub with the green 1/4 inch thick abrasive sheets found in a grocery store along with the heavy steel wool found on the same shelf. When scrubbing I use the cleaner from my parts washer which is water based so when you rinse it off it is ready to paint. Lot of work, but it seems to come nice when done.
I started removing the old undercoat with a needle scaler, Then I started finding rust Pin holes in the trunk pan, Now its ALL cut out. I think removing old undercoat is about the dirtiest jobs on a resto you can do.
Mine was pretty (very) clean but I used a norton rapid strip from Home depot. Plus a putty knife or screwdriver. http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
im doing mine now and finding that a heat gun and some thinner ( mineral spirits or laquer thinner ) seem to be working best for removing undercoat and cosmoline ( waxy nasty slimy stuff )- im almost done then ill hit with the aqua clean and zinc phosphate ( por15 prep ) and then paint it with rust bullet automotive ( UV ok, por15 is not and while it might not see alot of UV's Id rather do this once!! ) Then Ill decide if I like it the way it is or topcoat it with something!
I used degrease and a gasket scraper to get the chunks of it off. After I got most of the thick stuff off, I used a wire brush and a drill to get the little stuff.
I have from the rear wheels to the back done. Then ended up removing the trunk floor pan, and gas tank braces. What does everyone think the avarage Hours go into removing all the undercoat alone from the bottom of the car ? Just curious.
I think that strictly depends on how you are doing it ( on jack stands or a lift ), how thorough you really are, and what tools you have at your disposal but for me so far its taken about 8-10 hrs...this is over a course of a couple days - 1 here, 2 there, you get the idea...
I used a paint scraper on my frame that had undercoating on it. It came off in large patches from several parts of the frame. Have not done the undercarriage yet - but I already know I have some pans to replace. Hey Soctt, did those springs come with insulators for the top of the rear springs?
The rear springs didnt come with the insulators, but was planning on reusing the old ones unless you've got a line on some new ones.......:Brow:
If you have access to someone you know or can rent a steam genie (Hot water pressure washer) it is the perfect way to go. This one's burner will run on kerosene, stove oil or diesel fuel. I have not found an easier way if you are just doing a under carriage restify. Using the steam cleaner with the super hot water will literally peel undercoat off like butter. If the unit is running only as pressure washer will not remove undercoat hardly at all. Once she is running with hot washer it is gone like nothing. Grease, oil, brake fluid residue and yes undercoat all gone. Just be cautious to not hit rubber brake flex lines or wire harness, etc. Spending 2.5-3 hours under car jacked up and blocked very well ( Remember safety) with plastic suit on and all done and finished . Then blow off with air hose let air dry outside, put in shop with fans and she is ready for step #2.....Prep and paint. Dave
Buiyak That is a good idea never thought about using it under a car. I have used one at school, (the bus garage has one) to clean a rearend. Man that thing throws the water.
