you have 10 awg running from the battery to the switch and the switch to the pump coil? if so drop in that 15 amp. if it pops drop in the 20.
tlivingd suggested you find the resistance of the compressor, do you have a multimeter that can handle that? It would be nice to find some specifics.
unfortunately i dont have a multimeter, but im running a 10awg tot he fuse, 10awg to the switch and 8 or 12 awg (cant remember right now) to the pump. is either problematic?
i seem to keep blowin fuses. i had to put a 15 in the pump switch circuit and replace my 5 amps for the switches. im wondering if there is an underlying problem that im overlooking, cheep fuses or they just blow cuz its normal? im not sure here. what do you think??? ou:
It sounds like a grounding problem or a blown coil. the solenoid valves should not pop fuses. your going to need a volt meter. I'd rewire that ground at the coil to the battery or to where the ground cable meets the car/frame and run a ground for your solenoid valves back to the battery as well. (tie the 4 solenoids to one wire and bring that one wire back to the ground. you may need to change the wiring at the solenoids since they have 3 wires. you maybe using one wrong wire. -nate
Other than the compressor, what fuses are you blowing? The solenoids? Like tlivingd said, if you have bare metal contacting a piece of wire where the insulation was worn down, you will create a short and that will blow the fuse instantly. Do they blow when you plug them in or is it once you start to turn things on?
usually when i turn things on. i did change the grounding on the valves and so far everything is cool. initaily i had the valves grounded to themselves, now theryre grounded to the frame. works ok so far. can anyone enlighten me to why my temp gauge, (aftermarket) wont work? is it just old maybe?
Is it electric or mechanical? It is either broken or the circuit is open somewhere. If the gauge is mechanical it could be broken, or disconnected somewhere, which wouldn't be good. Did you figure out why your voltmeter doesn't work, it might be the same problem?
voltmeter was connected to the wiper fuse that blew. so thats why it wasnt working. the temp gauge has a thick wire...i think...coming out of the bak of it. and that all. is that a mechanical gauge?
No lights on the gauge? It's either a capillary tube for the water or a wire that goes to a temperature sending unit in the manifold. It would be grounded though. The mechanical gauge is directly connected to the system it is monitoring, there is no need for a 12v power source, if it is a mechanical gauge you will have a water hose coming directly into the car.
there are lights on the gauge, and i followed whatever the thick line is to the manifold where there seems to be exposed wire at the end of it. i'll have to take a closer look this weekend. thanks for the help so far man...i really appreciate it. :TU:
