How did you remove undercoating?

I’m looking for the recommendations to remove undercoating from the bottom side of the body? Heat gun and a scraper? Oscillating multi use tool with a cutting blade? Wire brush? Thanks!

 

Putty knife and a nap gas torch then wire brush. works pretty good.

 

Easiest way I found was actually accidentally discovered by another member here I believe.

Use a halogen work light, the trick is to heat up the metal 1st. Set the light on the opposite side of the panel right up to the steel (these put out a lot of heat) in 3-5 minutes or so your metal will be hot and your undercoating will be nice and soft and practically wipe right off.

I have done entire panels ( doors, quarters, floor pans etc) in 10 minutes or so after the initial heat up.


Keith

 

The knotted wire wheel with a 4.5" angle grinder , media blaster requires air compressor (coal slag), nylon fiber sanding disc also using a 4.5" angle grinder. Has worked for me.

 

Good idea, heat. I'll bet a heat gun would work as well.
I've used mineral spirits along with a scraper, then Scotchbrite. . Damned messy. Washed with soap and water. Next step was lacquer thinner to make sure all residue was removed before painting.

 

The two cars I did the stuff was messy as hell, but easy to remove. Took many hours. Heat was not required but I imagine it would be for many applications.

 

Trick I saw on youtube, guy used dry ice on the floor, left it until it was thoroughly cold, came back with a rubber hammer and started whacking on it. Undercoating broke off down to the paint. The dry ice ice evaporates so no mess in the car.

 

Gary I like that idea. If i ever get the a car with the sticky tar like stuff.

 

You're right about heating the metal. I used a heat gun and once I got a small area cleaned, I would heat the metal next to where I was scraping. By heating the metal instead of the undercoating, there was much less smoke and fumes.

 

Cool thanks! didn't think to heat the metal from the inside instead of the coating...All my shop lights are LED's now, nice and cool.

 

On two different restorations, I used The Snap-on Crud Thug, No. PT280THUGA. I like the tool because it doesn't heat up/stress the metal, no fumes, and it doesn't mar the surface. The tines of the brush/wheel are separated so it stays cool and doesn't clog up with the undercoating. A little bit of an investment, but worth it IMO. A few companies make the same type of tool.

 

I used a good heat gun -- safer than a torch...

 

I like that idea better than an open flame.
Things can get outta control with fire