Just got the frame back from being blasted. Does this look like damage or just poor factory welds and should I be concerned? I have a stick welder but not good at it....
My car's frame has similar areas, and I would like to make them stronger. What would you guys say about plugging in a welding machine, and reinforcing such welds? Worth the trouble, or not?
Not worth the labor, the only thing you’ll accomplish MAYBE is cosmetics. Those factory welds have excellent penetration from the looks of the pics.
Jeff - you might be better off boxing the frame and adding gussets (I think Hugger knows where to add them).
Thanks for everyone's comments/suggestions. I do like the idea of adding gussets, or something to stiffen things up. I worry about the day when I have good traction off the line, and it ends up twisting the 55-year-old frame so the doors won't close, or worse.
I'm looking to add some stealth (not visible by looking under the car on the ground) gussets to a frame for a stock "appearing" build. Any suggestions pics appreciated! Figured I'd get it in the shop & install the factory rear braces then start lifting on corners & see where it flexes & what to do to restrict it. Surely a rear shock tower brace.
What I always do any time I have a body off the frame On the rear crossmember where the springs and upper LCAs mount....it's riveted to the frame with a few welds...I burn it in solid all the way around A gusset from the ears for the upper LCAs....over to the frame wall...check for spring clearance Lower LCA....go from the bolt area to the frame with a tube square or round I use chevelle crossmembers on performance builds...no cushion bolts directly to the frame Check the front lower LCA saddles for cracks and the spelling pocket area If you really want to do the most you can Use the chevelle trans cross member and run moly tube from it to the front rails to there where the frame turns down by the cowl...then back to infront of rear lca mounts then a small tube from there to the LCA mount itself They make pre made kits for this..but if you can weld its easy to do...this will take 95% of the flex out making everything work better
Thanks Ethan! Great idea on burning in the rivets. Hadn't thought of that. On the crossmember, because this is a stock "appearing" build, I'm planning on taking a factory crossmember & machining solid blocks for the ends that'll look like factory bushings & welding them to the ends, then plug welding the factory brackets to that. Should be as solid as the Chevelle type crossmember if not more & look 100% stock. Also going to machine solid body mounts to look like stock compressed rubber bushings & of course bolt up the cushion only locations. Neither these bodies nor frames are very rigid but solidly bolted together should help a lot. I've been thinking about how to stealthly reinforce the side rails like you mention. I've never seen that type kit - Will have to do a search just to see what it looks like unless you have a link handy. If you ever find yourself doing any of the other mods you mentioned and can snap a few pics, I'd love to see them! I can sorta imagine what you're talking about (& I'm not looking at a frame right now either) but pictures would help tremendously! Edit: Interestingly when I got this "car" (70 350 4-sp. basket case/apart/missing stuff) I was disappointed that I didn't get the orig. frame but it's kinda been a blessing as I'm not sure I'd be as inclined to mod/weld on it otherwise. Goal is a concours 12-sec. car which based on my last 350 4-sp build I think is very doable.
