My starter is a billionth of an inch away from my shorty headers. I frequently have no reaction when turning the key when hot. I know a mini starter should cure this, as would a heat shield, but there is NO room to use the TA heatshield - it would rub the header. I fabbed up a thin sheetmetal shield, but it does no good. So what is the other option, in detail please (wiring by the book...). I just rebuilt this entire engine harness and hate the thought of hacking into it to add an external solenoid. Also, I HATE the look. Besides, with my wiring layout it isn't the easiest thing in the world to accomplish. What is the cure???
Yard.... Do the Riv's take the same headers as the A body??? I have pleanty of room for a heat shield between the AC delco starter.... Although I do think the shield is close to the header. All my hot start probs. are due to advanced timing. Could allways thermal wrap the headers... PIA but its cheaper then Jet Hot.... although nowhere near as nice looking.
Jeff, since you said that there is NO room for a shield, you really only have 2 options left.o No: Remote Solenoid- I know you said you HATE the look, but they work and they sure are convenient for lots of things! Remote starters switch, terminal block for accessories, ect. No one said you have to bolt it to the inner fender either!!:error: For example, since my battery is in the trunk, that's where I mounted mine. Mini Starter- Several types available...varying costs. Is there any other options? Possibly, I don't know if your headers already have a ceramic coating? I can't think of anything else. o No:
On mine I crank the engine with the spark off. Once it is turning over well I turn on the spark with a seperate switch. Not stock but works well and takes a lot of load off the starter. Mike D.
These individuals all point to one possible scenario; it isd possible that there is a voltage drop somewhere in the solenoid circuit. If that is the case, a volt meter will be necessary to find it. A good connection will have less than .3 volts across it. A good switch will have less than .5 volts across it. These tests will require that the circuit be operating, but they are more accurate than a resistance test, as it actually checks the circuit itself. Ray
odsmobile had a similar problem with the early 80's cutlasses with v8 engine . required a heat sheet . the heat generated by the motor & exiting thru the headers , literally boils the start windings & the the solenoid . so much resistance is built up that the solenloid will not kick in or if it does the starter will not kick in . u could powder coat the headers . the optimum solution is jamie's minnie starter .
Jeff, Buy a mini starter, I run one with T/A shorties and the stock heat shield, lots of clearance, it never flinches no matter how hard or hot I've run it. Run a good 1 or 2 gauge cable. You'll wonder why you didn't do it a long time ago.
Hi Jeff, I have a starter shield blanket on my starter from DEI I think. It is a thin piece of heat resitant material that reflects heat and wraps right around your starter. Year One sells heavy duty selonoids and springs for this issue. Their is some kind of wrapping material sold for headers as well. I had a no hot start situation no clicking just dead. Turned out to be my neutral safety switch needed adjustment and solved the problem. If your car will start in gear(like mine was, ouch) then it is most likely the neutral safety switch. I have a 340 no headers but still real hot by the exhaust. Good Luck! Mark
heat the only problem with a heat shield is if the starter gets hot enough to justify a shield,inevitably the starter will still hot-soak,and the shield will still keep the heat in the solenoid.you need the airflow to cool it.ou:
Hey Jeff, Buick also put a heat shield on the engine above the starter but I bet most of the gang has not seen these since they've probably been removed over the years. I'm still running mine. I could never make that T/A shield work either. But then, I've never had hot start issues. Maybe your battery cable sucks.
