Don't give up...wiring problems require patience. Since you now have problem w/lows, problem is close to something you've replaced, and by moving wires you've grounded lows. Look for deteriorated connectors, chafed/chewed wiring. May be hard to spot if breaks are inside loom, so look carefully. You may ultimately need to use a meter...
Hi John, Yeah, I thought the same thing regarding the low beams. I made sure to re-attach the grounding ring when I changed out the headlight switch. It's kinds tight in there, so it's possible I exposed something or knocked something loose? I'm not giving up, so keep the tips coming! Thanks, Divecop
I'd look at the dimmer switch, see if it has some corossion around the plug giving it a short to ground through the rust. I've seen this happen before, the rust acts like a resistor, with the higher amp draw of the high beams it causes them to blink.
First I want to say I hate reviveing a dead post being a "noob" on the forum however I used th search function first and I couldnt find anything else on this, I had a bad switch in the dash when I bought my 68 lesabre which i replaced and it fixed the interior lighting problem minus the dome light, however my high beams are doing the same thing work fine for about 30 seconds, then flash and my lowbeams work fine. I have read online to run two relays one to low beams and one to high beams and that this will cure the problem, is this truth or just a theory??
Running relays is overkill. The real problem (root cause) is not eliminated that way.Remember that the Buick engineers figured it out, pretty much right in terms of safety and longevity in the first place. You open yourself up to more problems by letting the extra current that is being drawn go its merry way. Since the problem is now worse, it is obvious that it is in the switch somewhere, assuming you changed NOTHING else. Your best bet IMHO is to follow each wire in the harness from the switch to the lamps. Not going to be fun, and when you spend the time, you (and everyone else reading this thread) will understand why electrical troubleshooting and repair are so expensive. I put a new timing chain in one of my sons' cars, the day before I had to fly out of town for several months on a job. Afterwards, it wouldn't start. I had it towed to a friend's shop, and it cost $360 to find a short in the harness, caused when I pulled the timing sensor off the timing chain cover. It had been getting fried for years near the exhaust manifold, and my pulling it up to get the parts loose for the timing cover R&R caused a dead short. Short story, you have to spend the time and look at every aspect of the problem. This takes mucho patience, and is very frustrating.
