Help with new valve body

Discussion in 'The "Juice Box"' started by Sturmgewehr, Jun 24, 2006.

  1. Sturmgewehr

    Sturmgewehr Well-Known Member

    and shift kit.I have the TCI unit and everything has gone pretty smoothly :)
    EXCEPT --where those check balls go. The diagram is not the clearest. :af: When
    I removed the old unit---the check balls were BETWEEN 2 paper gaskets--
    the diagram looks like the balls are stuck on the tranny BEFORE the gaskets
    go on.Anybody done this drill that can tell me how they go on? :Do No:
    Thanks Pete
     
  2. bignastyGS

    bignastyGS Maggot pilot

    The check balls go up into the actual tranny in the allotted holes. To help hold them in use lithium grease. Apply just enough to hold the check balls into the housing until you get the seperator plate in to keep things where they need to be.
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Well, you don't mention what trans you have so here is the 400
     
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    And the 350, both pictures from a 72 Buick Chassis manual
     
  5. Sturmgewehr

    Sturmgewehr Well-Known Member

    Thanks a bunch Larry--I have a TH400 :eek: ----your pic is clear! I have Ron
    Sessions book but there is no pic-- although he has a wealth of other info.
    Also I am concerned about getting the "pressure regulator" out--on my 400
    it looks like the shift linkage bar is in the way--do I need to remove the
    linkage? Here is a poor pic of my "detent solenoid"--it is not clear but you
    can see the cracks in the wire insulation--should it be replaced? :Do No: Thanks
    so much. Pete

    [​IMG]
     
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I would guess the linkage has to come out, but I'm no trans expert. As far as the downshift solenoid, mine was like that. Sometimes it would work, other times not. I replaced it. Ordered one from a trans rebuilder. There are two types, square can and oval can. One uses a gasket, the other does not. One is just as good as the other.
     
  7. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Pete, page 178 of the Sessions book shows your check ball locations as well for future reference. Make sure you follow the kit directions as it may delete some of them.

    You may have to get the shift linkage out of the way to modify the pressure relief valve; pages 119-121 and 164 can help with this.

    The detent wire doesn't look too happy...I'd get another from a trans shop, and test it before you buy it. There's an early & a later version, take your old one along to match it up.

    Devon
     
  8. Sturmgewehr

    Sturmgewehr Well-Known Member

    Thanks Devon---"I am greatly embarrased and deeply humilitated" :eek: ---I
    should have read Session's book a little closer :spank: And your right the
    kit says delete #5. Now to get that regulator out :af: Pete
     
  9. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    You'll need some safety glasses & elbow grease, the plug you see behind the snap ring has a lot of force behind it! Try to go slow so stuff doesn't fly all over the place...been there!

    Good luck & keep us posted.

    Devon
     
  10. fireball

    fireball Well-Known Member

    Pete,
    First thing. DO NOT use lithium grease. Use petroleum jelly, as it will melt when the trans heats up. There is a good chance the lithium may not melt. Most rebuilders use a product called "Trans gel" which is petr. jelly mixed with trans fluid. Using just petr. jelly is the way to go.
    Next, a TH400 only has 2 check balls that MUST be used. The other 4 are optional. Looking at the pic that Larry posted, reference the 3 check balls on top that are just about in a row from front to back. You MUST use the ones at the front of the trans and rear of the trans. IMHO, the one in between should be left out of most applications as it gives a much firmer 1-2 shift.
    The other 3 check balls are just fluid restrictors, mostly for kickdown and cause no harm by being left out.
    Lastly, you should not have to remove the shift linkage to get at the press. regulator. Just swing it out of the way as much as you can and you can get at it. Removing the linkage is not a good idea unless you have a new seal to put in the case (some cases use and "O" ring on the shaft) as it will likely be damaged if you remove the shaft all the way. The nut and selector tend to lightly "flare" out the end of the shaft when tighted. This results in an edge the will make removing the shaft through the case difficult and will most likely cut the seal.
    Hope this helps,
    Scott
     
  11. Sturmgewehr

    Sturmgewehr Well-Known Member

    Thanks Scott--been on it about 5 hours today---all set to button it up :laugh: I did NOT use LITHIUM used petroleum jelly---I put it on a
    plastic spoon stuck in the fridge to harden it up cause I'm working in the
    heat!!!! Actually that part wasnt so bad that PRESSURE regulatore was a
    super PAIN :af: Finally bought the special pliers from Sears to get the
    SNAP RING out---getting it back in was even more fun but I got it!!! Now
    to refill :error: put the PAN back on first :laugh: I will keep you posted--
    I'm almost 57 and I am gonna be sore when I wake up tomorrow :ball: Pete

    Oh yes I didnt have to mess with the shift linkage---just had to move the
    shifter on the column till everything cleared!!
     

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