Car has 4-drums. Had the fronts completely re-done 7 years ago. (6K miles) by a shop. I've had to put brake fluid in the rear res of the master multiple times so I figured the rears needed replaced. That proved to be true so my son and I installed new drums, hardware and wheel cylinders. Didn't replace the master cylinder. It was obvious that the brakes needed done but how does one know if the master cylinder needs replaced? Not sure about the proper way to bleed the brakes. I've heard start with the front, start with the right rear etc... Do we need to do all four wheels or just the rears? In what order? We started with the right rear and then moved to the left rear. Seemed to take quite a few pumps to get the air out of each side. Didn't do the fronts. Still, the pedal goes to the floor. Obviously I've messed up somewhere along the line. o No: Any help would be appreciated. There aren't that many nice days left! Thanks in advance. BTW, does the master cylinder cap have to be on during the process? (Haynes manual says to)
I'll start off. 1. Your order to bleed is correct, RR-LR-RF-LF. Bleeder closed, one pump-hold, crack bleeder, close, one pump-hold, crack bleeder, and so on till you get good stream-no air out of ea wheel. Make sure fluid stays up in both M/C tanks or you will be inducing air into the system. Some start the process by filling the M/C and cracking both the rear bleeders and letting gravity do its thing, then closing and starting the pumping 2. You must do all wheels, not just the back. 3. The M/C cover should be on, at least loosely, only to keep the corrosive brake fluid off evrything nearby in the engine compartment. 4. If after you done the correct brake bleed you still don't have a pedal (and considering the age of the M/C) I would replace the M/C and make sure you bench bleed it before installing. Some replacement M/C have bench bleeding instructions and fittings with the part. 5. I assume you have adjusted the emergency brake adjuster and the rear shoes when you replaed everything back there. And just to be sure, when you're starting fresh, I would also adjust the front shoes manually. :TU:
Rear shoes replaced and adjusted along with the E brake. Thanks for the advice! :TU: P.S. I did leave the M/C cover on as I figured the pumping would just send the fluid flying. I was told by someone else it wasn't necessary (you helped me prove him wrong) :grin:
I've had problems bleeding the rears. It's helped me to let the car idle while I bleed the brakes (only the Lark, for some odd reason). Of course you have to be careful and make sure your helper doesn't touch the shifter.
