Just installed a new clutch (centerforce dual friction) along with the required self aligning throwout bearing as stated in the JEGS website (Requires Throwout Bearing P/N 183-N-1716). Now I'm getting this aweful noise coming from the throwout bearing but only when I press the clutch pedal. The last throwout bearing I used was a hays (70-101) which was always quiet. I thought I installed it onto the fork correctly, large side going towards clutch. Does anyone know of any issues with those self aligned throwout bearings? Is there anyway of fixing it without yanking the tranny like removing the boot from the fork and shifting it with a screwdriver? I'm going to drive the car to work tomorrow (3 miles each way) to see if it quiets down but just wanted someones opinion before I pull tranny. I do have the hays throwout bearing which I can put in if anyone mentions any issues. Allen allioop108@aol.com
Did you use the stock pivot ball without any issues? The reason I ask is that my observation was that the thickness of the pivot ball that came with the same clutch from Summit was noticably thinner than stock. So to get the required depression of the fingers on the pressure plate I got a Lakewood adjustable pivot ball to make up for the shortfall. I saw another member, Al F., speak of the same issue requiring the Lakewood ball.
Yes stock pivot ball was used last time (no issues) and this time. Only thing different is clutch and throw out bearing. Its quiet when my foot is not on clutch and when I press clutch you can hear it. Noise is much worse if I rev motor although it did quiet from when I initially started motor up. When I first started motor it was loud with my foot off the clutch then quieted after I stepped on clutch and released it. from then on its just noisey when you press the clutch pedal. I figured initial that was the self aligning feature quieting it down when I pressed clutch and released. Allen
Yes I remember reading about the issues with the pivot ball. Thing is everything was perfect with the old clutch. I didn't compare the heights of the old and new throwout bearing to see if there was a difference but even if there was I would assume I would feel that in the pedal anyway, lower or higher pedal than from before but the pedal is the same. So I'm wondering this noise, which I can feel in the pedal when I rev the engine, is it the throwout bearing spinning on the fork or something. I just looked at the hays and there is a tang on it which when I put it on a spare fork seems to stop the outer bearing housing from spinning, in other words it will spin a few degrees until the tang touches the fork and then only the inner part of bearing will spin on the tranny shaft. I'm wondering if the new bearing does not have this tang and the whole thing is constantly spinning? Allen
directions are for reading I just read the installation directions and I see what I did wrong. I have the throwout bearing installed where it slipped between fork and clip. The clip is supposed to be squeezed under the collar on the small side of the throwout bearing so that there is no play, everything nice and tight. When I did it you could move throwout bearing around. I just tried it on my spare parts after reading directions. Ok no big deal, a few hours to drop tranny and correct, hopefully I can do it with bellhousing in place. Will post back with results. Can someone tell me how to get the shifter handle off, I dont have any feeler gages to pry handle off, what is my other alternative? Everytime I try I cant do it and end up having to remove all the linkage, etc, etc. Allen
I would recommend, albeit a pain, leaving the handle on and removing the shifter and linkage. This comes from Pete Serio, Hurst guru. Those handles are tight and should stay tight. You'll never be able to get it back in as tight if it is in the car.
I have removed Hurst handles many times with a feeler gauge and oil. It takes about 8/1000 to hold back the pawl so the handle can slip out. They were built so as to be able to be removed for service. They just slip back in so the pawl locks it in place. I have never had an issue on an Olds or a Buick being loose after removal.
From HURST: Q) I would like to get the stick from my OEM shifter re-chromed. How do I get the stick out of the mechanism? A) OEM shifters used a "bayonet-style" stick, held in with two metal clips and rubber isolators on each side of the stick. To remove the stick, place or push a steel shim or feeler gauge down each side of the stick, at the bottom where the chrome handle goes into the mechanism, and pull. Should you need new clips and isolators, they are available through your nearest Hurst retailer or through Hurst for a nominal charge. Contact Tech Services for more information (216.688.8300 ext. 5, Monday through Friday, 8:30 to 5:00 EST).
As I recall the release pawl is only on one side of the ones I have removed although I have used feelers on both sides when I was unsure as to the correct side.
Problem solved. The fork that holds the throwout bearing was broken in two places. On the part of the fork where it curves like a "C", that was broken off and on the opposite fork the metal tang that holds the bearing was broken off. Found a new one in the auto parts store and now its quiet. Now I'm looking for the rod that goes from the z bar to the clutch as I had to adjust this one all the way to get a good pedal. The fork was slightly different then the old one. The rod works for now but when the clutch starts to wear down I will not be able to compensate with that rod so someone let me know where I can get a longer threaded rod. Allen allioop108@aol.com
